Bastimentos: a little slice of paradise

Rene aka "Cheno" is a slender 5'9" Bastimentos native. He has 4 siblings and "so many cousins" that he cannot even keep track of them anymore. Ask anyone, and not only do they know him, but they will probably tell you exactly how they are related. Although he has not been directly elected, Cheno is the mayor of Basti. 

Bombe, aka "big Papi" (due to his love of the Boston Red Sox) is Rene's best friend. Hovering at 5'7" and an easy 250 lbs, Bombe is a man with a warm smile and a mother that can cook up a mean piece of fish. Often hanging off his porch on the main strip, Bombe keeps track of the on goings in town and can help you find cold beers and Abuelo (Panamanian rum) after a long day at the beach.

And then there is Roberto. A dashing young man who "cannot find a wife because all these women here are my cousins", Roberto is one of the islands greatest resources. Not only does his mother operate one of the restaurants in Old Bank but he is one of the islands primary water taxi drivers. From Bocas town to Red Frog to Bibi's on Isla Carenero, Roberto is the man that will get you there and sometimes even with a beverage in hand. 

Although only 3 people, these are the people that make Bocas del Toro, and more specifically, Isla Bastimentos a little slice of heaven. Bastimentos, the largest of the islands in the archipelago, is a place to spend a day, a week, or even a lifetime. It's a place of smiles and loud cackles, the freshest fish and sweetest coconut bread. It's a place of world class surf and cold Panama beers. It is a place where reggaeton pours out onto the one sidewalk in town and time moves slow.

Although the guide books originally took me to Isla Colon, the more populated island in the Bocas del Toro archipelago, I knew I wanted a place where the beaches are practically empty, the surf is top notch, and where the bars are filled with locals and not the hoards of young backpackers from around the world. And so Bastimentos was exactly the island getaway I was searching for. 

Things to do in Bocas del Toro (in no particular order):

1. Hike to Red Frog beach, grab a beer, and then continue on to Pollo beach, Bocas's best kept secret. The hike to Pollo takes about 1.5-2 hours depending on speed and winds through the jungle and along the beaches. It's a beautiful walk and the great thing is that you can water taxi back from Red Frog (Pollo is 25 mins past Red Frog).

2. Day boat tour to Cayo Zapatilla, dolphin cove and Cayo coral. The definition of paradise comes from Cayo Zapatilla so pack so cervezas and a mask and snorkel and enjoy as much of it as you can. $25 per person.

3. Spend an evening in Bocas Town eating ceviche at the fish shop at the end of the island. This stuff is so good that it sells out so make sure you get there early. 

4. Surf at one of the many prime surf spots on the island. Surf lessons and boards can be rented at Bibi's on Isla Carenero. 

5. Eat at firefly on Bastimentos. Amazing food and drink--Period. Reservations necessary. 

6. Hike to the coffee shop on the hill on Bastimentos island and get the brownie. You won't regret this amazing (and fully organic) delectable. The coffee is also top notch. 

Travel practicalities:

1. If you can, fly. $100 each way on air panama. Flight is 45 minutes from Panama City and is worth every penny. 

2. Boat/bus. You can take a boat to/from Almirante and then bus to Panama City. Their is one direct bus to/from each day that takes 10 hours. Although the cost of $25 is significantly cheaper I would argue that your time is much better spent on the beach. If you do go by bus bring a blanket because they blast the AC. Ear plugs also will help tune out the constant stream of bachata music and babies crying. 

A man, a plan, a canal, Panamá!

Panama City, Panama is a town full of American expats, marine industry workers and Panamanians hoping to make a buck. Located at the junction where the Panama Canal meets the Pacific, this town has been an epicenter of trade for hundreds of years.

A city founded in 1519, Panama City is a place where old meets young, tradition meets modernity and plato typico meets Taco Bell. 

Wanting to experience the older side of Panama City we decided to stay in Casco Viejo, Panama's old quarter (designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1997). Built in 1673, this area is technically the new city of Pananma after the original city was burnt down by Henry Morgan and his band of pirates in 1671. The streets are narrow with the buildings an eclectic mix of old, new and ramshackled. This small neighborhood, located on the shores of the Pacific, is home to the Presidential palace, the original canal museum, catherdrals and many beautiful plazas, including Plaza del Francia, that overlooks the Pacific. This area is also home to many great cafes, restaurants, and rooftop bars, along with some swanky boutique hotel options.

Casco Viejo at night

Coming from Panama's international airport our taxi driver dropped us off at Luna's Castle, one of Casco Viejo's budget hostel options. Hoping this place would give us the simple respite we needed for a cheap price, we booked it. However, after one look at our private, 3 bedroom room we opted for a different option. The room, comparable to a prison cell, had one flickering florescent light, no windows and no AC and layers upon layers of dirt on the wall. Could I have slept there? Sure. However, the thought of a sleepless night and the potential of bed bugs sent us off to another refugio--the Tantalo, a boutique hotel where each room is uniquely decorated and the beds are like sleeping on a cloud. 

After finding a place to lay our heads we then took to the ancient streets in search for food. A short walk from our hotel was Plaza Bolívar, where flocks of Panamanians and tourists alike were partaking in a lovely evening of eating and drinking under the trees. With a plethora of restaurants to choose from, we ended up going with Casa Blanca. One look at their menu and I knew our stomachs would be satisfied: plantanos with calamari, grouper with peppers and creole sauce, sea bass with beet purée. 

With satisfied stomachs and few glasses of sangria in our systems it was now time to hit the bar scene. Club Havana and Casa Nuratti's rooftop bar were a quick jaunt away and offered up local music and cheap Panamanian beers and cold drinks. 

The next morning we then headed to what Panama is most widely known for: the canal. A 15 minute, $10 taxi ride brought us to the Miraflores locks, the closest of the 3 sets of locks to Panama City. The 80 mile long and 10 mile wide canal, now operated by Panama, takes boats 8-10 hours to travel through and is Panama's greatest source of revenue.Those wanting to travel through the locks can easily book a day tour for around $120. Otherwise for $15 you can hang out on the overlook of Miraflores and wander through their well put together museum that includes a 30 minute video on the making of the Panama Canal. 

Miraflores Locks

After an hour of watching the boats navigate through canal it was time to escape the heat and humidity and find refuge some where a little cooler. From the canal we hopped back into a taxi and headed to Marcos Gelabert Airport to catch our Air Panama flight north to the archipelago of Bocas del Toro.

Traveling through Panama City? 

Wireless internet is every where. Sign up for a Wego account and you will be able connect all over the city--for free. 

Negotiate with your taxi drivers before you get into their car. They set the price and will hose you if you do not agree on a price before getting in.