tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40854647003524808832024-03-06T01:21:43.779-08:00The Travel Bragger: Been There. Done That. LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.comBlogger37125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-32166377279241230382014-07-29T04:14:00.002-07:002014-07-30T17:35:30.826-07:00Life is Hakuna Matata on Zanzibar<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The second you step off the plane onto the sands of Zanzibar you know you have found a slice of paradise. The salty air and gentle breeze instantly whisper to you the island mantra: "Hakuna Matata" ( Swahili for "no problem") reminding you to relax and enjoy all that awaits.</div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br>
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<div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Arriving from Dar es Salaam, Tanzania's Capitol, on a twin engine 12 seater prop plane, I was ready for my island break. Although Zanzibar is only a 20 minute flight or 1 hour ferry ride from Dar it became clear in the 15km drive from the airport to Stone Town, the largest town on the island, that Zanzibar is a world away from the hustle of Mainland East Africa. The narrow streets and ancient buildings speak of a place with a deep history, rich traditions and a time system that moves slow. </span></div>
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First stop Stone Town. The largest town on the island of Unguga (aka "Spice Island)", Stone Town used to be a major spice and slave trade center. Due to Arab influence and the recent funding from Aga Khan, Stone Town is now a culinary destintion. Arriving late in the evening and with an empty stomach a stop at the Forodhani Gardens, Zanzibar's nightly outdoor street food market, was a must. Packed full of the most elaborate food stands, this park is competing hard for best street food in the world award. Every night starting at dusk this park fills up with food stands that offer up delectibles such as the Zanzibar pizza ($3), kebabs and coconut bread ($2), mango with pili pili (20cents) and glasses of freshly squeezed sugar cane juice to wash it all down. </div>
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Beyond the food of stone town, this city is a great place to soak up history. Visitors can tour the old slave market, prison island (a short boat ride away), or go on a spice tour and learn about Zanzibar's most precious resources: cloves and vanilla. <br>
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After a hot day of walking around Stone Town it was time to hit the white sandy beaches that make this place world famous. Although one cannot really go wrong with any of the beaches on Zanzibar, one must decide what they are looking for because each area offers something slightly unique. Want to kite surf? Head to Paje. Want high end, all-inclusive resorts? Head to Jambiani. Want a good party and beaches that don't recede with the tide? Head to Nangwi.<br>
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Wanting to relax on the best beaches by day and party by night (while still watching the wallet) the beaches at Nungwi, and more specifically Kendwa, seem like the best bet. A 1 hour dulla dulla ride ($2) away from Stone Town, Kendwa turned to be just the paradise I was looking for. The tropical blue waters and soft white sand mixed with comfortable beach loungers and cold drinks made for a week of pure unadulterated laziness. ($15 hour long massages helped tremendously). If one wanted a break from their beach chair Zanzibar Watersports, operated by adventure aficionado Chris, was steps away to hook you up with snorkeling and diving trips to Mnemba atoll, kite surfing, deep sea fishing and much more. <br>
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Although one could spend a lifetime on Zanzibar, after 6 days it was time to pass on my now imprinted beach chair to another mzungu in need of a beach break...but only after I suck down one last glass of sugar cane juice. </div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-1643848711682597452014-07-15T04:34:00.001-07:002014-07-15T05:07:42.489-07:00From Goma to Nyungwe National ParkLake Kivu is one of the worlds most volcanically active lakes experiencing limnic eruptions on a regular basis. Situated between the Democratic Republic of Congo and Rwanda, this lake is of great economic importance for the region and is now a center for methane extraction.<div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCpgeoYSWyrXIKT3puROmfPXttPzmAV62gWU_kDmGxQD7gpdaIfSrXHPASqDwkkeQ7Z1xNSfo-8Npyn5vKgNWgL8vTJInW_RAH-bfKytTvuxL51raCapxuc3mfVboRX9XZHK978bsI2OI/s640/blogger-image-123381017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCpgeoYSWyrXIKT3puROmfPXttPzmAV62gWU_kDmGxQD7gpdaIfSrXHPASqDwkkeQ7Z1xNSfo-8Npyn5vKgNWgL8vTJInW_RAH-bfKytTvuxL51raCapxuc3mfVboRX9XZHK978bsI2OI/s640/blogger-image-123381017.jpg"></a></div><div><br></div><div>Beyond its economic value, Lake Kivu is beautiful. It's waters are a brilliant blue and it's shoreline is a mix of towering mountains, old lava fields and white sandy beaches. Although most people spend their time relaxing on the shores in Gyseni, Rwanda, it is a lake that is worth exploring if you have the time. </div><div><br></div><div>From Goma, DRC speed boats travel twice daily across this expansive lake stopping at a couple of the islands (where you can get off and stay over) <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">before docking at the southern tip of the lake in Bukavu, DRC ($50). </span></div><div><br></div><div>Wanting to get to Nyungwe National Park, located in southern Rwanda, as scenically and efficiently as possible traveling by boat seemed like the best option. Taking 2.5-3 hours (in comparison to 9 by bus) this boat sped across the calm waters of Kivu and allowed one to enjoy the beauty of it all. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJnk7kF0OQDDP4WLTaYwa5p8HiFXVhMAqMQqhyftVyYihYZ1V5zKPULewCrKzjO35Kmb8p6ZlfquaMwEWc60H8UghJJnQ2-t1dpWcQml7ddX22w0XUvEtsNHTh_Zz95E1lUkel5oYyQnk/s640/blogger-image-1647905796.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJnk7kF0OQDDP4WLTaYwa5p8HiFXVhMAqMQqhyftVyYihYZ1V5zKPULewCrKzjO35Kmb8p6ZlfquaMwEWc60H8UghJJnQ2-t1dpWcQml7ddX22w0XUvEtsNHTh_Zz95E1lUkel5oYyQnk/s640/blogger-image-1647905796.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div>Arriving at Bukavu, the bustling port city located in south Kivu, it was then a 15 minute taxi ride, a chaotic border stop, and 5 minute walk to the border at Chanegugu, Rwanda, a land so distant and exotic in comparison to the dizzying streets of Bukavu and Goma.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY6_4NHQRbvDmhxurms5tYzJf8FCkUx8Grll1n7DO8i88WScOFlkD224X64SlrW6O9LBsiXdCqFwUwElK2xGZKzpu0NaE35ZhsTqB38uwZxnEW6RsQtqHvfN_s6AY-DBjiSU4rUjppp0U/s640/blogger-image-134582605.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY6_4NHQRbvDmhxurms5tYzJf8FCkUx8Grll1n7DO8i88WScOFlkD224X64SlrW6O9LBsiXdCqFwUwElK2xGZKzpu0NaE35ZhsTqB38uwZxnEW6RsQtqHvfN_s6AY-DBjiSU4rUjppp0U/s640/blogger-image-134582605.jpg"></a></div></div></div><div><br></div><div>After a seemless crossing in Rwanda one can either take a bus (45-1 hour) or hire a taxi (30 mins, $40) to take you into one of the most biologically diverse pieces of land on the planet: Nyungwe NP. Home to 275 bird species and numerous primates including chimpanzees and golden monkeys, this park is breathtaking. Ranked the #1 place to visit in 2014 by National Geographic, it is definitely a spot worth exploring, if only to walk across the 40 meter high canopy bridge to get a birds eye view of the expansive forest.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtFJLxXVsXl4-u2lEwcGqKAg-mb9dCGQpp9GbtFdxIuDsDFL46fUYh6cRBBV1uAIYoQ99xa2wpzRKz1kWtmQDNeu2sN4y8nMKgsupioZGQ60vMW5q2vUOV6lEBSmYGtPaGGj9e-HZJyPU/s640/blogger-image--856787686.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtFJLxXVsXl4-u2lEwcGqKAg-mb9dCGQpp9GbtFdxIuDsDFL46fUYh6cRBBV1uAIYoQ99xa2wpzRKz1kWtmQDNeu2sN4y8nMKgsupioZGQ60vMW5q2vUOV6lEBSmYGtPaGGj9e-HZJyPU/s640/blogger-image--856787686.jpg"></a></div></div><div><br></div><div><b>Practical</b> <b>information</b> <b>on</b> <b>boating</b> <b>across</b> <b>Lake</b> <b>Kivu</b>:</div><div><br></div><div>1. Boats across the lake depart from Goma, Congo. Unfortunately no boats leave from Rwanda.</div><div>2.You are allowed 10 kilos. If you are over you will have to pay a small amount per extra kilo.</div><div>3. Sandwich and drink are provided with your ticket. </div><div><br></div><div><b>Practical</b> <b>information</b> <b>for</b> <b>Nyungwe</b> <b>NP</b>:</div><div><br></div><div>1. There is NO ATM so take out cash in Chanegugu. </div><div>2. The ranger station at Gisakura allows you to book hikes using your credit card. </div><div>3. Accomodations are limited. There are a couple of very high end lodges and very few low end. Camping is an option but just come prepared with warm clothes and food. </div><div>4. Motorbikes are a great and cheap way to move about the park if you do not have a car. From one ranger station to the other it is 5000 ($8) RF, in comparison to the $100 they charge for car hire. </div><div><br></div></div>LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-26368541082719224532014-07-04T01:37:00.001-07:002014-07-04T01:37:39.442-07:00Kwibuka: 20 years after the genocide"If you knew me and you really knew yourself then you would not have killed me" -Felicien Ntagengwa<div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiPntpQcEyOHElSDVQE0nBGYPPK2EqZlDeV6J1HvoW-wYXq18iM88NRJfzvowzDnTMkJSLvS5t4ToxU7q5r6HGTLCsylDgoZDZgv7iJBrP0dAAPI6Q9-pkwzWC7DAH1oOXlK7c_wF5haY/s640/blogger-image--151562340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiPntpQcEyOHElSDVQE0nBGYPPK2EqZlDeV6J1HvoW-wYXq18iM88NRJfzvowzDnTMkJSLvS5t4ToxU7q5r6HGTLCsylDgoZDZgv7iJBrP0dAAPI6Q9-pkwzWC7DAH1oOXlK7c_wF5haY/s640/blogger-image--151562340.jpg"></a></div><div><br></div><div><i>Kwibuka: Remember</i>. <i>Unite</i>. <i>Renew. </i>That is the motto of Rwanda as it heals from the genocide that ended the lives of 1 million men, women, and children and destroyed a country 20 years ago. This July 4 <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Rwandans will come together to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the end of the genocide. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Rwanda has made it clear that they will never again be a bystander to genocide. Besides national days of rememberance and celebration, Rwanda has made eduction as means of healing and renewing a priority. </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">As a part of this process memorials of the horrific event that peaked in April of 1994 have been built all across the country. </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">The largest of the memorials is located in Kigali, Rwanda's capitol. Pearched on one of the cities hills, this memorial walks you through the history before, during and after the genocide and is also the resting place of close to 300,000 people who were killed during this time.</span></div><div><br></div><div>Words cannot fully express the emotions that one experiences here. As I walked through the museum and burial grounds I was accompanied by close to one hundred Rwandan secondary school children. As we listened and read through the history together I watched these students hold each other and comfort their wailing peers. As an outsider I have never felt so helpless and completely ashamed of humanity. The lack of international aid is inexcusable and even though I was a child at the time you can only feel a heavy weight of responsibility. The memorial, funded by James and Stephen Smith of the Aegis Trust, is beautifully designed and does a very effective job at pulling on your heart strings and reminding people that regardless of race, ethnicity, or nationality we hold a collective reponsibility to each other to never let events like this happen again.</div><div><br></div><div>Kigali Genocide Memorial is free. Audio tours of the museum and grounds are $15. Open daily from 8am-5pm (last admission is at 4pm).</div><div><br></div></div>LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-3661409274494446892014-07-02T14:50:00.001-07:002014-07-05T11:34:47.226-07:00Virunga<div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">The Virunga mountain range spans 1.9 million acres (7,800 square km) and 3 countries: Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). It is also one of the most biologically diverse areas on Earth and is home to approximately 800 of the last surviving mountain gorillas. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;">Founded in 1925, Virunga National Park (originally Prince Albert National Park) is located on the eastern edge of the DRC and was the first national park on the continent of Africa. A revolutionary idea at the time, this park led the way to conserving some of Africa's most valuable land. Now almost 90 years later, this park is at risk: people's desires for oil and other minerals (specifically, tantalum) threaten the concept of conservation and protection. </div></span></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2gmHwb8CRGk5pSJZICB8GeAJgfspgik6ITtx3S1g2iDIdeo7rnG8sbEnIGAwHaUSat-6EEFBEKWR9xK5EFFx7WwjK41mWzBKg9z6J-mOr81zt_LaLJ1rvdpjzL4tn5p6vUSG-HDU_OgY/s640/blogger-image--842417421.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2gmHwb8CRGk5pSJZICB8GeAJgfspgik6ITtx3S1g2iDIdeo7rnG8sbEnIGAwHaUSat-6EEFBEKWR9xK5EFFx7WwjK41mWzBKg9z6J-mOr81zt_LaLJ1rvdpjzL4tn5p6vUSG-HDU_OgY/s640/blogger-image--842417421.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div>In the last three years<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> Virunga National Park has been the epicenter of civil conflict and closed its doors to tourism in 2011 due to the increased violence and conflict in the area. </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Fortunately, the war has since ceased, allowing Virunga to reopen to tourists this past January.</span></div><div><br></div><div>There are only a few places in the world to see mountain gorillas: Bwindi NP in Uganda, Volcan NP in Rwanda, and Virunga NP in the DRC. W<span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">hen the time came to make a decision, </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">I </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">overcome my fears of civil unrest and lack of security; I chose to </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">giv</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">e my money to Virunga, Africa's most at-risk national park</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">The drive from Goma, the closest city to the park, to the park headquarters at Rumangabo takes 1.5 hours and winds through UN military bases, open fields that used to be home to over 1 million Rwandan refugees, and lush jungles. Upon arriving at the only accommodation in the park, Mikeno Lodge, you instantly feel like you are in a distant land far from the chaos of Goma and the rebuilding efforts taking place in eastern Congo. </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Virunga is a land of extreme beauty. From the wide open plains to the towering volcanos, it is easy to understand why so much wildlife resides here and why Emmanual De Merode and his ICCN rangers risk their lives daily in order</span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"> to protect it. </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">In the last 10 years, 140 rangers have lost their lives in the fight against poachers, rebel groups, and large international companies that are illegally exploring for oil. </span></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTslhEfMglpWArbpilv6JfUOQqlZUHlOFn9z9aQaa5ckpAnXwYxT3__pEzLt_E891U_JygUq2PvGPCf0xy9AdkvwFQVaNgcF8NLgXmm67BfJjmw1vHb35uRu6QRSQUN5hb7Ts8oV3yoVE/s640/blogger-image--1222817139.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTslhEfMglpWArbpilv6JfUOQqlZUHlOFn9z9aQaa5ckpAnXwYxT3__pEzLt_E891U_JygUq2PvGPCf0xy9AdkvwFQVaNgcF8NLgXmm67BfJjmw1vHb35uRu6QRSQUN5hb7Ts8oV3yoVE/s640/blogger-image--1222817139.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Trekking mountain gorillas in the wild is a process very different from other African game drives. Due to both the gorillas' natural habitat and their susceptibility to human diseases, gorilla viewing is highly regulated and protected. All visitors must hold a permit ($465 at Virunga) and are limited to one hour of viewing time once the </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">family has been spotted. [Note: Virunga is the only park that requires masks and has been lobbying the other parks to follow suit due to the death of one gorilla last year from a human virus.]</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Leaving at 6:30am escorted by one of Virunga's dedicated rangers, we made our way towards Bukima camp, the launching point for our trek. The drive took roughly 1.5 hours on one of the most atrocious roads on the planet. After our brains and bodies had been sufficiently jostled we arrived at Bukima for our debriefing and long awaited trek. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Winding through intense jungle we literally hacked our way through thick vines in search of the Nyakamwe family. The excitement and nervousness of seeing such large animals in the wild intensified with each step. After an hour of hiking we met up with the trackers who brought us 20 minutes further up the mountain side to witness one of the most spectacular sites on earth: mountain gorillas in the wild. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgByHUjhFaIdqNMSHeTqvOiIkI11oM5_Evj_vp3Lk5o5-j5hPBHsCwlnYFklnWJMoeJYFKJk6pdLjsXpG9M3lRlw7kKAqflN9RO77oq_1dYXwkHoa6sAkTW36FfmU4HiEpHvSNLM4S3JcI/s640/blogger-image--523904052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgByHUjhFaIdqNMSHeTqvOiIkI11oM5_Evj_vp3Lk5o5-j5hPBHsCwlnYFklnWJMoeJYFKJk6pdLjsXpG9M3lRlw7kKAqflN9RO77oq_1dYXwkHoa6sAkTW36FfmU4HiEpHvSNLM4S3JcI/s640/blogger-image--523904052.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">The Nyakamwe family is comprised of 2 babies, 3 silverbacks and 4 females. As we sat less then a meter away from these great animals we were greeted with grunts, playful grabs, and looks of complete disinterest. The babies swung from vines and wrestled in the bush as the others lazed about. The sheer size of the males was both intimidating and awe-inspiring. One look into these great apes eyes and you are both in love and in fear of getting ripped to shreds. The surge of thoughts and emotions while sitting amongst them is beyond comprehension. In one simple word, the experience was magnifique (and worth every penny). </font></div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWPP9fo-A9FxnM70tn_g6NrsUxRBjDLxNLD00-abr5ZTE2MvndnThYAhRNGOG4V_LSJ0ZZ9sdzadz7woY02cd-vC-iiabtTWoIonjlOecONoyZRqRpMWPEHCdVWRxhxkNozZ_zdSFIKw/s640/blogger-image-488579897.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmWPP9fo-A9FxnM70tn_g6NrsUxRBjDLxNLD00-abr5ZTE2MvndnThYAhRNGOG4V_LSJ0ZZ9sdzadz7woY02cd-vC-iiabtTWoIonjlOecONoyZRqRpMWPEHCdVWRxhxkNozZ_zdSFIKw/s640/blogger-image-488579897.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div>Need another reason to visit Virunga? This park is also home to the only gorilla orphanage in the world. Thanks to Andre, the gorilla whisperer, and the other rangers, Virunga has rescued 5 gorillas who were orphaned due to the civil conflict. The gorillas are outside from 9-3 daily. No entrance fee. Just sit and watch at your leisure from one of the many view points. The gorillas love to show off so you are guaranteed a good time. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKwIi3Lw5v9mh0iucyV5ON3Jd8Y-351F9oV4Mrh0zWVQFLX1-nLmJZF7JeyPHVRZqrxJjw65McGinqFHZ2aTG2kaGgFObaMDb2WDwCAk1Be-dH0o8gy81NMXTmO7eLnkoOEIqGyXsrGd0/s640/blogger-image-970871105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKwIi3Lw5v9mh0iucyV5ON3Jd8Y-351F9oV4Mrh0zWVQFLX1-nLmJZF7JeyPHVRZqrxJjw65McGinqFHZ2aTG2kaGgFObaMDb2WDwCAk1Be-dH0o8gy81NMXTmO7eLnkoOEIqGyXsrGd0/s640/blogger-image-970871105.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><div><br></div><div><br><div><br></div><div><br></div></div></div>LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-67708755264655429702014-07-01T08:49:00.003-07:002014-07-05T12:06:19.487-07:00Into the CongoA country that has been war torn for decades, the Congo seems like a rather daunting place to vacation much less visit. When you tell people you are going to the Congo they often give you a confused and rather bewildered look. "The Congo?! Why would you want to go there?" they all ask. <div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVpX7H4ubfUuoiNFhAIrJ_9QhtWU2OqeZ-co0p8GTcsF6pUzIALeYuKhGRTs5-NVSv6T2tGnAFj86msgcPBXGtydPH_fyoQ6r9fdugTfV1jullYXIvLWhACbXm4sMexMRBSoyP5rTpuSg/s640/blogger-image--1985188966.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVpX7H4ubfUuoiNFhAIrJ_9QhtWU2OqeZ-co0p8GTcsF6pUzIALeYuKhGRTs5-NVSv6T2tGnAFj86msgcPBXGtydPH_fyoQ6r9fdugTfV1jullYXIvLWhACbXm4sMexMRBSoyP5rTpuSg/s640/blogger-image--1985188966.jpg"></a></div><div><br></div><div>Although I fully recognize people's fears and confusion about this place called the Congo; not only has it been referred to as the "heart of darkness" since Joseph Conrad's famous book was published in 1899 but it has also been a place rife with tribal conflict, genocide, and civil war for the last 20 years. <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">However, </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">amidst chaos, violence, and lack of leadership, the Congo lives on. A country spanning 905,600 square miles (2345 sq km) with over 66 million people </span><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">still stands, and quite proudly I must say. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Entering the eastern center of Goma in the province of North Kivu from the Rwandan border, it is clear that times have been tough. The roads, left over from colonial rule, are worn to bits, buildings are ramshackled (partly due to the volcanic eruption that destroyed part of the town in 2002), and there are more UN trucks on the road then regular vehicles. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnyQqf68Yrne0AETOWXizPkucBCHuwVC9D4RXBK0C8YSU5L-PNY7DH6J6Hz00zY-_mHA6xMg8Zt7xuOIKuEGAHack3YZSSJwkeso-F6c4eF-2t0TxKoVIuPoIRpKFSB2589WLOERd-QBA/s640/blogger-image-1422077497.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnyQqf68Yrne0AETOWXizPkucBCHuwVC9D4RXBK0C8YSU5L-PNY7DH6J6Hz00zY-_mHA6xMg8Zt7xuOIKuEGAHack3YZSSJwkeso-F6c4eF-2t0TxKoVIuPoIRpKFSB2589WLOERd-QBA/s640/blogger-image-1422077497.jpg"></a></div></div><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Goma is a town full of ex-pats and aid workers and, therefore, a bizzare mix of extreme poverty and highly educated people. Ask any humanitarian worker and they will tell you that Goma is like summer camp and anonymity does not exist. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Spending only a short bit of time in Goma it is clear that in this dusty city life is divided: there are the places for those that have and a lack thereof for those that have not. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZSY3c2HfHmZRtzu0B9PIwykfxg7wOLvzAXd0uBqbLN99TxGhuSOrNaAVEkrUwPM0agAl43ZZrzq3Blpeg_ulzgA-bh4D602RAfKowI-DCCQzjPo2ReoEKTvV-6tPYA9qVrdD8_VYW0AQ/s640/blogger-image-659367450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZSY3c2HfHmZRtzu0B9PIwykfxg7wOLvzAXd0uBqbLN99TxGhuSOrNaAVEkrUwPM0agAl43ZZrzq3Blpeg_ulzgA-bh4D602RAfKowI-DCCQzjPo2ReoEKTvV-6tPYA9qVrdD8_VYW0AQ/s640/blogger-image-659367450.jpg"></a></div><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">However, life still carries on here and with full energy. Boda Bodas move from place to place; local Lingala music blasts from store fronts; women and men move about their daily lives dressed in the most colorful clothing I have ever seen. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9kwVgcoTUCm98J8-JWXVUEVdRef29ozVelfpZVIElHE7q4DqFr1RTRHnfcdqsmmZFEWTtUDvp92bF65UmEfcfeqlBFFOCSJITW0TekaZ8hyphenhyphen8LDR2SNoNJtNZ3-YpW8-dB0G_tzrO-1Jw/s640/blogger-image--1489342067.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9kwVgcoTUCm98J8-JWXVUEVdRef29ozVelfpZVIElHE7q4DqFr1RTRHnfcdqsmmZFEWTtUDvp92bF65UmEfcfeqlBFFOCSJITW0TekaZ8hyphenhyphen8LDR2SNoNJtNZ3-YpW8-dB0G_tzrO-1Jw/s640/blogger-image--1489342067.jpg"></a></div></span></div><div><br></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">The word resilient seems like a giant understatement for the Congolese people. Whether it be a gathering at the local water pump or watching football on tv, the Congolese are ever smiling. They endure, and in ways that not many on this earth could match. </font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><b>Traveling</b> <b>into</b> <b>Eastern</b> <b>Democratic</b> <b>Republic</b> <b>of</b> <b>Congo</b><b>?</b></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">1. <b>Visas</b>: tourist visas are now available. It is recommended that you get your visa in advance in your home country. It will save you many hours of hassle. A single entry, 1-month VISA is $115 for U.S. citizens. A 3-day tourist visa to Goma and Virunga is available at the boarder for $100. Invitation letters are necessary for both visas and can be obtained from the ICCN office (if you are going to one of the parks) or a local tour agency.</font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">2. <b>Border</b> <b>crossing</b>: check border crossing times. Due to continued conflict, the open crossing times continuously vary. </font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">3. <b>Precautions</b>: Most aid workers in Goma are on strict curfew. Although at the time of the writing it was more lenient (12 am), it is advised to anyone staying in Goma to follow suit. Although most incidences of violence are not directed at foreigners, it is wise to follow the same precautions.</font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">4. <b>Police</b> <b>and</b> <b>FDRC</b>: no pictures, unless you want to see yourself inside one of the worlds most crowded and unsafe jails. </font></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><br></div></div>LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-88343243588964821592014-07-01T08:49:00.001-07:002014-07-01T08:49:16.529-07:00Eating your way through UgandaThrow a seed anywhere in Uganda and it will grow. The soil, a deep rusty red color, is some of the most fertile soil in the world. From bananas to pineapple food is abundant here, which makes it one of the best culinary destinations in East Africa. <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Loving to eat and try new things I made this trip back to Uganda all about food. From the 10,000 USH ($4) goat stew to the 500 USH (20 cents) chapati, here is how you, too, can eat your way through Uganda.</span><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI1ncKQCgQPH4HPWXqVKh8GoETjSJvv__zCRz543wfGUagpocS1H1-pi-jgxswJopkL0xjGMXzEVGj2EbKCcTI4fQDo8U7VjGEbWGX1QVlcqpWMlOC5p3vpZh3RoQMKzymTnxajpcUrxE/s640/blogger-image--1625793200.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjI1ncKQCgQPH4HPWXqVKh8GoETjSJvv__zCRz543wfGUagpocS1H1-pi-jgxswJopkL0xjGMXzEVGj2EbKCcTI4fQDo8U7VjGEbWGX1QVlcqpWMlOC5p3vpZh3RoQMKzymTnxajpcUrxE/s640/blogger-image--1625793200.jpg"></a></div></font><div><br></div><div>Rolex: the Ugandan take on the burrito. This very popular and amazingly priced (1000 USH) chapati and egg roll up will surely satisfy any hungry stomach. Add some avocado, tomato and onion and you've got yourself one hell of a meal.</div><div><br></div><div>Ground Nut Sauce: Uganda's national sauce. A simple concoction of ground peanuts, water, salt, and a touch of sugar, this sauce leaves your mouth salivating for more. Eat it as a stew with chicken or on the side with rice, but be warned, this is as calorie rich as it tastes. </div><div><br></div><div>Kebabs: Kebabs are everywhere in Uganda. Whether you are walking in town or on a 10 hour bus ride, kebabs can easily be found. From chicken livers and necks to cow udder and ribs to illegal baboon meat, these tasty sticks are a great option for those who want a quick snack or a cheap, meat lovers meal. Price should be around 500 USH.</div><div><br></div><div>Roasted grass hoppers: A Ugandan delicacy for sure, these creatures are delicately roasted to insure the perfect crunch and then mixed with onions and other seasonings. Remember that looks can be deceiving so get yourself a cone full and give these fried up morsels a try. I promise you that you will be asking for more. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVmXW6GnTQSs-aQ0JmxXemkaF8qLRQ-DnXGVjITD8ow-QwIA5tJPtthQmKTvIAM3C39Ew28xdSpEPKx2a4U2wZWRIcKtCh7GG4Hgcn60M6aEkAvWtvQmrrWYo_E2brRTO0D2TegDP9jd4/s640/blogger-image-1519530836.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVmXW6GnTQSs-aQ0JmxXemkaF8qLRQ-DnXGVjITD8ow-QwIA5tJPtthQmKTvIAM3C39Ew28xdSpEPKx2a4U2wZWRIcKtCh7GG4Hgcn60M6aEkAvWtvQmrrWYo_E2brRTO0D2TegDP9jd4/s640/blogger-image-1519530836.jpg"></a></div></div><div><br></div><div>Roasted Ground Nuts: Some of the best peanuts in the world come from here. Perfectly roasted deliciousness all for under 20 cents. It's a no brainer.</div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLO0eoEGRUMg9gigoidI7C3hnKPeBIuM8_L5LnDMd6utNFcM6k0EUcyqDo6bqjadtqBKn_8l9TWHHvJzrwBjEpm4fPze-dkId2mMAqp-TlRIFM-V4mnaseA-TqH9H5ZuzrrkyZRQjEuCM/s640/blogger-image--1860737313.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLO0eoEGRUMg9gigoidI7C3hnKPeBIuM8_L5LnDMd6utNFcM6k0EUcyqDo6bqjadtqBKn_8l9TWHHvJzrwBjEpm4fPze-dkId2mMAqp-TlRIFM-V4mnaseA-TqH9H5ZuzrrkyZRQjEuCM/s640/blogger-image--1860737313.jpg"></a></div><br></div><div><br></div><div>Matoke: The mashed potatoes of Uganda. Made by boiling plantains or green bananas, matoke is a staple food here. The markets in Uganda are filled with plantains ready to be served up as a side to chicken, goat, or fish. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLSsHEcQs3jZDG_bSBfeFYoMTWsL0LrUo15iBQKA7yI7OlOyDffIF5erxt2p73LNiNL9rblBBbt-b0FTGLsicIQcu73BMkGRd1hBf-mvzfi5M_Qtyb8ZSooA6lAB94sLYlSH3dKdz9C_4/s640/blogger-image-797531972.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLSsHEcQs3jZDG_bSBfeFYoMTWsL0LrUo15iBQKA7yI7OlOyDffIF5erxt2p73LNiNL9rblBBbt-b0FTGLsicIQcu73BMkGRd1hBf-mvzfi5M_Qtyb8ZSooA6lAB94sLYlSH3dKdz9C_4/s640/blogger-image-797531972.jpg"></a></div></div><div><br></div><div>Crawfish with avacado: a delicacy from around Lake Bunyonyoni, this dish is lip smacking delicious. The dish consists of crawfish that are cooked in a spicy tomato-mayonnaise sauce and then served up with the freshest avacado around. If you find yourself lounging on the shores of Lake Bunyonyoni this is a must have meal.</div><div><br></div><div>Chapati: Indian style flat bread that is served with just about everything. From a main at breakfast to a side dish, chapati is what Ugandans run on. </div><div><br></div><div>What to drink with all of this amazingness? Well, a Nile Special of course. </div><div><br></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoFhyG7-OfpHs07WBAPKpLDky0hubeIZoAGzr5DVKZqHCf3zJCSm1xndrSP11dXVM7hryF7oJRt6sc25kmXfNAZPuFpGukQ9T7u_NIa8HjMPzqTW5tddgqkr_1-AyfJRX5NKQW_16CcwI/s640/blogger-image-2137375383.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoFhyG7-OfpHs07WBAPKpLDky0hubeIZoAGzr5DVKZqHCf3zJCSm1xndrSP11dXVM7hryF7oJRt6sc25kmXfNAZPuFpGukQ9T7u_NIa8HjMPzqTW5tddgqkr_1-AyfJRX5NKQW_16CcwI/s640/blogger-image-2137375383.jpg"></a></div><br><div><br></div><div><br></div></div></div>LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-66364032809803690332014-06-22T07:13:00.001-07:002014-06-22T08:36:44.264-07:00Into thin air.It's 6:23!" I shouted at my travel partner and flew out of bed. "Our taxi comes in 7 minutes. Damn alarm never went off." In a flurry of clothes and toiletries we changed and shoveled our belongings into our overly full packs just in time for our taxi to arrive and take us to our next leg of the journey: Uganda. <div><br></div><div>Damn, we're good. We said as we relished in the fact that not only did we successfully get ourselves out the door on time but that there was no "jam" on the way to Jomo Kenyatta airport. </div><div><br></div><div>It all seemed too good and in fact it was. I should have known from my past experiences that nothing runs this smoothly in Kenya. However, I being overly optimistic thought nothing of the lack of queue at the Air Uganda counter upon our arrival. What I <span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">did not expect was the complete disappearance of Air Uganda overnight. And yet, here we were standing at the counter being told by two grounds crew that Air Uganda stopped service. "Did they not email you?" the woman at the counter asked. Clearly not, ma'am by the fact that I am standing here at 7:00 am wanting to check in. </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">"Well, why don't you take a seat over there," she said pointing to the other stranded passengers. "The representative is on her way to help you."</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">"When will they be here?" </span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">"I'm not sure. We were told she is on her way."</span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;"><br></span></div><div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">And so at the mercy of the woman "on her way" we sat and waited, hoping we too would not disappear into thin air. </span></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"> </font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">Surving at Jomo Kenyatta airport continued:</font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif"><br></font></div><div><font face="Helvetica Neue Light, HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif">1. Nairobi Java house between terminal 1 & 2 Tuskers, tea, and brownies are decently priced and will give you the patience necessary to deal with the lack of efficiency. </font></div><div><br></div>LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-17986204012494515972014-06-21T11:32:00.000-07:002014-06-21T11:35:12.453-07:00Tusker Time<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">"Somewhere in the world it's Tusker Time", I told my friend Wandeto as we sat down for a late lunch of ugali, fried goat, and chapati. Although we usually wait a few more hours into the day to sit back, relax, and pop open one of Kenya's famous Tusker beers, today we decided that after our long walk in Nairobi National park that Tusker time would come early.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Even though Kenya received independence from Great Britain in 1963 it is still a place that is rich in many British cultural practices. Tea is still served at 10 and 4, they drive on the left side of the street, use British electrical plugs, and speak with a British English accent. However in the 51 years since independence Kenya has been able to reassert itself and create new traditions that are entirely theirs. One of those is Tusker Time, the Kenyan twist on high tea. It's an easy and quiet lovely early evening tradition that requires very little--cold Tusker beers and perhaps a bag of ground nuts (peanuts).</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">So whether you are navigating the "jams" of Nairobi, searching for the big 5 in the Masaai Mara, or lounging on the beaches in Lamu, if you find yourself in Kenya this is a tradition that should be honored and observed. </span></span><br />
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-11193042721979778342014-04-23T10:44:00.000-07:002014-06-21T10:54:44.287-07:00Bastimentos: a little slice of paradise<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Rene aka "Cheno" is a slender 5'9" Bastimentos native. He has 4 siblings and "so many cousins" that he cannot even keep track of them anymore. Ask anyone, and not only do they know him, but they will probably tell you exactly how they are related. Although he has not been directly elected, Cheno is the mayor of Basti. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Bombe, aka "big Papi" (due to his love of the Boston Red Sox) is Rene's best friend. Hovering at 5'7" and an easy 250 lbs, Bombe is a man with a warm smile and a mother that can cook up a mean piece of fish. Often hanging off his porch on the main strip, Bombe keeps track of the on goings in town and can help you find cold beers and Abuelo (Panamanian rum) after a long day at the beach. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">And then there is Roberto. A dashing young man who "cannot find a wife because all these women here are my cousins", Roberto is one of the islands greatest resources. Not only does his mother operate one of the restaurants in Old Bank but he is one of the islands primary water taxi drivers. From Bocas town to Red Frog to Bibi's on Isla Carenero, Roberto is the man that will get you there and sometimes even with a beverage in hand. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Although only 3 people, these are the people that make Bocas del Toro, and more specifically, Isla Bastimentos a little slice of heaven. Bastimentos, the largest of the islands in the archipelago, is a place to spend a day, a week, or even a lifetime. It's a place of smiles and loud cackles, the freshest fish and sweetest coconut bread. It's a place of world class surf and cold Panama beers. It is a place where reggaeton pours out onto the one sidewalk in town and time moves slow.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Although the guide books originally took me to Isla Colon, the more populated island in the Bocas del Toro archipelago, I knew I wanted a place where the beaches are practically empty, the surf is top notch, and where the bars are filled with locals and not the hoards of young backpackers from around the world. And so Bastimentos was exactly the island getaway I was searching for. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><b>Things to do in Bocas del Toro (in no particular order):</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">1. Hike to Red Frog beach, grab a beer, and then continue on to Pollo beach, Bocas's best kept secret. The hike to Pollo takes about 1.5-2 hours depending on speed and winds through the jungle and along the beaches. It's a beautiful walk and the great thing is that you can water taxi back from Red Frog (Pollo is 25 mins past Red Frog). </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">2. Day boat tour to Cayo Zapatilla, dolphin cove and Cayo coral. The definition of paradise comes from Cayo Zapatilla so pack so cervezas and a mask and snorkel and enjoy as much of it as you can. $25 per person.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">3. Spend an evening in Bocas Town eating ceviche at the fish shop at the end of the island. This stuff is so good that it sells out so make sure you get there early. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">4. Surf at one of the many prime surf spots on the island. Surf lessons and boards can be rented at Bibi's on Isla Carenero. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">5. Eat at firefly on Bastimentos. Amazing food and drink--Period. Reservations necessary. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">6. Hike to the coffee shop on the hill on Bastimentos island and get the brownie. You won't regret this amazing (and fully organic) delectable. The coffee is also top notch. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><b>Travel practicalities:</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">1. If you can, fly. $100 each way on air panama. Flight is 45 minutes from Panama City and is worth every penny. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">2. Boat/bus. You can take a boat to/from Almirante and then bus to Panama City. Their is one direct bus to/from each day that takes 10 hours. Although the cost of $25 is significantly cheaper I would argue that your time is much better spent on the beach. If you do go by bus bring a blanket because they blast the AC. Ear plugs also will help tune out the constant stream of bachata music and babies crying. </span><br />
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-66076426221751944272014-04-18T16:06:00.001-07:002014-06-21T10:55:16.503-07:00A man, a plan, a canal, Panamá!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Panama City, Panama is a town full of American expats, marine industry workers and Panamanians hoping to make a buck. Located at the junction where the Panama Canal meets the Pacific, this town has been an epicenter of trade for hundreds of years.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">A city founded in 1519, Panama City is a place where old meets young, tradition meets modernity and plato typico meets Taco Bell. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Wanting to experience the older side of Panama City we decided to stay in Casco Viejo, Panama's old quarter (designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1997). Built in 1673, this area is technically the new city of Pananma after the original city was burnt down by Henry Morgan and his band of pirates in 1671. The streets are narrow with the buildings an eclectic mix of old, new and ramshackled. This small neighborhood, located on the shores of the Pacific, is home to the Presidential palace, the original canal museum, catherdrals and many beautiful plazas, including Plaza del Francia, that overlooks the Pacific. This area is also home to many great cafes, restaurants, and rooftop bars, along with some swanky boutique hotel options.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Coming from Panama's international airport our taxi driver dropped us off at Luna's Castle, one of Casco Viejo's budget hostel options. Hoping this place would give us the simple respite we needed for a cheap price, we booked it. However, after one look at our private, 3 bedroom room we opted for a different option. The room, comparable to a prison cell, had one flickering florescent light, no windows and no AC and layers upon layers of dirt on the wall. Could I have slept there? Sure. However, the thought of a sleepless night and the potential of bed bugs sent us off to another refugio--the <a href="http://www.tantalohotel.com/" target="_blank">Tantalo</a>, a boutique hotel where each room is uniquely decorated and the beds are like sleeping on a cloud. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">After finding a place to lay our heads we then took to the ancient streets in search for food. A short walk from our hotel was Plaza BolÃvar, where flocks of Panamanians and tourists alike were partaking in a lovely evening of eating and drinking under the trees. With a plethora of restaurants to choose from, we ended up going with <a href="http://www.restaurantecasablancapanama.com/" target="_blank">Casa Blanca</a>. One look at their menu and I knew our stomachs would be satisfied: plantanos with calamari, grouper with peppers and creole sauce, sea bass with beet purée. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">With satisfied stomachs and few glasses of sangria in our systems it was now time to hit the bar scene. Club Havana and Casa Nuratti's rooftop bar were a quick jaunt away and offered up local music and cheap Panamanian beers and cold drinks. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;"><b>Traveling through Panama City? </b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Wireless internet is every where. Sign up for a Wego account and you will be able connect all over the city--for free. </span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: small;"><span style="font-family: Verdana,sans-serif;">Negotiate with your taxi drivers before you get into their car. They set the price and will hose you if you do not agree on a price before getting in. </span></span></div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-54479907510454246162014-03-29T13:50:00.000-07:002014-03-29T13:51:41.689-07:00Agave juice anyone?<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
For those of us living on the northern side of the Rio Grande, Mexico is known as the land of eternal splendor: unlimited sun, sand and agave juice. With its long list of serene beaches and energetic night life, Mexico is a place that thousands of gringos flock to each year. Whether or not one should go to Mexico is rarely the question, even with the recent increase in violence. Instead the questions is "where TO?" in the land of tropical splendor.<br />
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This time around I surpassed the college scene in Cancun and headed to the peace and serenity of the Baja. A quick jaunt away from the cold and snow in the Midwest, Cabo de San Lucas made an excellent getaway option.</div>
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Cabo de San Lucas is located at the very southern tip of the Baja de California. Originally a small fishing village, Cabo grew to be a popular vacation destination in the mid 1970s. Cabo San Lucas is the more popular place to stay of the two Cabos. With the plethora of beach accommodations, restaurants, and popular clubs, including the famous "Cabo Wabo" and widely known "Señor Frogs" chain, this town has something for everyone. </div>
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For me, it had the perfect recipe for respite and relaxation. Staying at the <a href="http://www.capellahotels.com/cabosanlucas/default-en.html" target="_blank">Capella Pedregal</a> I had to look no further than my beach chair for everything I needed. Opened in 2009, the Capella is one of 3 five star resorts in Cabo that goes above and beyond to ensure the comfort and happiness of each of their guests--Mexican s'mores on the beach? Check. Cucumber jalapeño margaritas? Check. The freshest sea bass ceviche around? Check. The Capella is also home to El Farallon, a cliff side, open-air restaurant that serves up the freshest seafood around. The views, ambiance and food create an evening for the books and so if you can swing it, this is a place to spend your hard earned dollars.<br />
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Overall, the Capella has definitely cornered the market on service and hospitality and has mixed up a recipe for relaxation to be reckoned with. <br />
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Although the resorts in and around Cabo make it very easy to never leave their gates, there are plenty of reasons to get out and explore the southern tip of the Baja. The Baja is a great place to enjoy whale watching (prime season is November-March), go deep sea fishing, and hike in the surrounding mountains. </div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-5356771107060095842014-01-11T12:49:00.004-08:002014-01-11T13:42:29.996-08:00In and around Bhopal<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">When one googles "Bhopal, India" images of beautiful lakes and Indian landscapes do not flash across your screen. Although its nickname is the City of Lakes and is one of India's greenest cities, the first page on Google alerts you to a much darker past. And it is true, Bhopal, located in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, has a grim recent past. </span></div>
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30 years ago, on December 2nd, 1984, gas leaked from the Union Carbide plant, now owned by Dow Chemical, and spread across the city of Bhopal causing close to 600,000 injuries to date. This disaster, which was caused by a lack of regulation and oversight, is considered one of the worst industrial disasters on record and sadly the city and the victims of the tragedy are still fighting for justice 30 years later.</span></div>
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Even though Bhopal has a dark past, it is a beautiful and charming city that can lure any person in for a couple of days. From boat rides to shoreline promenades to hotels where you can sip a chai and watch the sun move across the water, this city is dominated, and rightfully so, by its lakes. Bhopal is the calm and tranquil Indian child in comparison to its brothers Mumbai, Calcutta and Delhi, and so it is a great place to come, eat and simply relax.</span></div>
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Besides lounging along the lakes, Bhopal has many interesting historical sites right outside of its city limits that make perfect day trips. </span></div>
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<span style="text-decoration: underline;"><b>Bhimbetka Caves:</b></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Located 45 kilometers south of Bhopal, this UNESCO world heritage site is home to 15,000+ year old rock paintings. Discovered in 1957, these rock paintings show images of animals such as bison, tiger, rhinoceros, wild boar, elephants, as well as popular religious and ritual symbols. The rock shelters, which are nestled on a high rock outcropping are from various epochs of time, ranging from the Upper Palaeolithic, Mesolithic Age to the protohistoric, early historic and medieval periods. The most ancient scenes here believed to be commonly belonging to the Mesolithic Age. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Whether or not rock paintings are your cup of tea, the walk between the shelters and the views from the top of the outcropping make this a worthwhile destination. </span></div>
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On a hill overlooking the countryside of Madhya Pradesh, about 40 km from Bhopal, is the site of another UNESCO world heritage site: the Buddish monuments of Sanchi. Dating back to the 2nd and 1st centuries B.C., Sanchi is the oldest Buddhist sanctuary in existence and was a major Buddhist centre in India until the 12th century A.D. In order to fully take in and appreciate the various stupas and intricate carvings one needs at least a half day to wonder around this site. </span></div>
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Please note that even though these sites are located close to Bhopal they both cannot be easily seen in one day. Due to the chaos that is India's roads 45 kilometers (27 miles) can take close 2 hours.</span></div>
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Looking for a place to stay? Bhopal has plenty of great options. The <a href="http://ivysuites.in/"><span style="color: #0f3bee;">Ivy Suits Guest House</span></a> offers up amazing views, delicious food, and wonderful service. The owner Pramod gives up great advice on things to see and do and is incredibly accommodating. He is also well versed in conservation efforts around India and can give you great tips on spotting one of India's prized Bengal tigers. </span></div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-3336744476760257762014-01-02T22:25:00.000-08:002014-01-11T13:43:45.481-08:00Going on a [Tiger] Hunt...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<span style="font-family: inherit;">It was 5:45am when I woke to a knock at my door. I groaned as I looked at the clock and saw the numbers flash across the screen. "5:45, really? It's so early. Come on tigers, can't you sleep in just a little." I crawled out of bed and opened the door of my immaculately decorated bungalow at Forsyth's Lodge. "Good morning, Miss. Your jeep will be leaving at 6:15", the young gentleman announced as he handed me my chai. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">The sky was barely stirring awake as I layered every piece of clothing I had on. You see I came to India thinking it was going to be hot. At least that is what I was told: "Prepare for the heat" all of my friends said as I packed for this trip. And now, on this early morning in December, I was freezing wishing I had brought my long underwear from Wisconsin. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">At 6:25am the jeep arrived at the entrance of <a href="http://satpura-national-park.com/" target="_blank">Satpura National Park</a> located 210 kilometers away from Bhopal in the state of Madhya Pradesh. As we pulled up my excitement and confidence in finding one of India's mystical tigers had grown. Dawn was now showing its face as the five of us clambered onto the boat that would take us across the river and into the tigers den. "So Rishi, what is the likelihood that we are actually going to see a tiger today? Be honest. 25%? 75%? 100%?" I asked our eager, handsome young guide. "Well you see tigers are shy. Some days we see them, some days we don't." That wasn't the answer I had wanted to hear but regardless I was determined to find one.</span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">River crossing at Satpura National Park</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">As the camp song, "going on a <strike>lion</strike> (tiger) hunt" repeated in my head I looked, listened, and watched the jungle for tiger activity. Every monkey call, bird chirp or sambar howl could mean a tiger is lurking close by. I was on high alert but with every minute that passed my confidence in seeing a tiger waned. As the sun moved high into the sky and our jeep made its way back to the entrance I knew my luck had run out. "Well, I guess no tigers today" I sighed. "On our next drive we'll get one--right?" </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Elephant Safari</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Although I never did get my tiger, my time in Satpura National Park was worth the trip. From elephant rides, to canoeing, to climbing to ancient cave paintings, there are plenty of activities for people of all ages within the park. Satpura is also the only park in India that allows visitors to walk within the jungle. Even though the king of the forest is the Bengal tiger, the park is home to a plethora of other animals, such as sloth bears, sambar, and flying squirrels, and so it is a place that deserves a few days. </span><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit; font-size: small;">Main lodge at Forsyth's</span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Needing a place to stay? Lodging is restricted to outside of the park and is limited. I spent the entirety of my stay at <a href="http://www.forsythlodge.com/" target="_blank">Forsyth's Lodge</a> and was highly impressed with the service. The staff is informative and welcoming and goes above and beyond to care for their guests. Other options include Rani Pani and Sunshine Jungle Lodge.</span><br />
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-7810412185646542922013-08-23T07:16:00.001-07:002013-08-25T07:22:13.956-07:00T.I.A.<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A common, and perhaps overly used, phrase amongst people living and traveling in Africa is T.I.A., meaning "This is Africa". Throwing out a TIA shows your acknowledgment of all things awkward, absurd, and astonishing here in Africa.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red roads of Jinja, Uganda</td></tr>
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Over the last few months of trodding across the Eastern part of the continent of Africa there have been many times where a TIA would have been the correct response, for example why the power has not been connected to a building even when the cable is sitting 10 meters away or why people are okay waiting for a bus to leave 4 hours late. However, as I sit in the Entebbe airport ready to head back to the distant lands that I call home I can only think that TIAs are in fact almost always the incorrect response. It's a phrase seeped in judgement and the belief that the way things are done in the western world are better. After weeks spent on this continent I have seen; I have listened; I have learned.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Samburu students in Uasio Nyrio, Kenya</td></tr>
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I have learned that TIA is the deep rust colored soil that stains your feet and the strong sun that deepens your skin; it is the smell of wood burning and diesel engines idling; it's the sound of Kiswahili, Luganda, Kikuyu, Amaharic, the queens English, and then some all being spoken and understood; it's the flavor of maize and beans, bananas of all sizes and colors, sweet potatoes, sukuma, and the most flavorful chicken you could ever eat. TIA is rhythm; it is dance; it is song. TIA is not feeling rushed, living in the here and now; it is family and community; it is understanding far to well that life is short. TIA is finding joy in the little things, not wasting a plastic bottle or throwing out a ratty old t-shirt. TIA is celebration, pure joy, and believing in mystical powers to explain the unbelievable.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sukuma (kale) in Nanyuki, Kenya</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zege Peninsula, Ethiopia</td></tr>
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And even though this continent has undergone, and still struggles with many hardships: corruption, poverty, war, disease, lack of resources; this part of the world still endures. So in one word, TIA is resilience. </div>
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Africans make no apologies for their lives, culture, or countries, and so if you find yourself wandering around this part of the globe you either have to take it or leave it because, This, my friend, IS Africa.</div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-75629349107348750922013-08-22T01:32:00.001-07:002013-08-25T07:08:25.078-07:00Kampala by Night<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
"A Nile, please", I shouted to the bar tender at Steak Out, the local and popular Tuesday night haunt in Kampala. At 11pm the bar was just starting to pick up as people trickled in after a good days work. Popular Ugandan music was being spun from the DJ booth while a few danced.<br />
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The night was still young at 11pm here in this cultural Mecca. Although not widely known in the west, Kampala is a place with a vibrant nightlife. Bars, restaurants and clubs litter this city and on any day of the week offer up plenty to see and do. From reggae music, to pop African, to house, every night some where in this city is hot. </div>
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On Tuesdays it happens to be Steak Out and so that is where I, and 8 others from across this globe, headed. An open air club with a large dance floor, pool tables and plenty of room to mingle, drink, and smoke hookahs, this joint was clearly the place to be that night. </div>
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By midnight the bar was packed and the dance floor even more so. Ugandan rhythms commanded our attention and took hold of our souls as we literally danced the night away. By the wee hours of the morning there was no sign of stopping. People continued to pour in, presumably after working late night jobs, even at 3 am. </div>
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After hours of dancing, and drenched completely in sweat, there was no question in my mind that Kampala is a place that rivals the nightlife of Vegas, Ibiza and Berlin and for a hell of a lot less USD.</div>
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Want to dance the night away in Kampala? Check out the local paper for what is happening each night. Mish-Mash is always a sure bet for a drink or a jumping off point. </div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-68527122668712092422013-08-18T12:10:00.001-07:002014-01-02T22:53:21.212-08:00Kampala by Day<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Africa has a sound to it that is musical. Although it's a noise that to many is deafening; to Africans it is the sound of life: horns honking, boda boda's (motor bikes) revving their engines, Afro beats pouring out of roadside shacks, women selling bananas. Kampala, the Capitol of Uganda, has this unique rhythm that I instantly wanted to dance to. From the moment that I stepped off my 14 hour overnight bus from Nairobi I knew I would like this place.<br />
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Kampala, or the city of seven hills, at times has a very western feel to it. If not paying full attention you might believe you were in San Francisco or southern Italy. Although Kampala, and more widely, Uganda's past has been troubled, especially under the watchful eye of Idi Amin, it is a city that has clearly revived itself. The streets are orderly; the buildings have European accents to them; the city feels safe. </div>
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In order to really take in Kampala I decided that I must see it from the back of a boda boda. Although riding on the back of boda boda's can be incredibly unsafe, it is fantastic way to experience and appreciate all that Kampala has to offer. Thankfully there are many fantastic (and safe) drivers to take you around and after a quick inquiry at my hostel I was put in touch with Walter at <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/Walters-Boda-Boda-Tours-Kampala/186042838142064" target="_blank">Walter's Boda Boda tours.</a> </div>
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Within 30 minutes Edi, my driver, arrived. He zipped up, threw me a helmet and said "tugende", Luganda for "lets go". After strapping my helmet on, and telling Edi that I was not ready to die, we took to the streets of Kampala with a vengeance. </div>
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First stop: independence park and the "Beverly Hills" of Kampala where the streets and houses very much resemble those in Southern California. The yards were beatutifully manicured; the houses were ornate; and the views of Kampala: stunning. Home to ambassadors and dignitaries from across the globe, it is very clear why this neighborhood earned its nickname. </div>
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From 90210 we then headed to the heart of Kampala: its city center. Markets, taxis, matatus headed in every direction, and a plethora of bars and restaurants make up this part of Kampala. Driving through the tightly packed streets here requires the attention and skill similar to a neurosurgeon. Dodging left and right we carefully (and rather thrillingly, I might add) made our way through this section of town en route to one of the worlds largest mosques and what is considered to be one of the best views in Kampala.</div>
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Completed in 2008, the Gaddafi mosque, named after the ex-Libyian dictator who donated the funds to build it, is a beatuiful building perched atop one of Kampala's 7 main hills. For 10,000 USX ($4) a guide will take you into the mosque and to the top of the spire to take in Kampala from above. Women do not need to worry about wearing appropriate dress because it is provided for you. </div>
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From the mosque we then headed for a traditional Ugandan lunch at 2K. Located close to the mosque, this restaurant is a popular local hangout. Serving delicious traditional delicacies from goat to ground nut sauce and everything in between, it was clear why so many people flocked here: the food was fantastic and worth every bit of my 10,000 USX.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walter serving up banana beer</td></tr>
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With our bellies full we then made our way to the King's palace. With quick detour to grab some banana beer and roasted coffee beans, we then cruised down the "royal mile", the street that connects the government building and palace (yes, it was copied from the Scottish), to the infamous palace where Idi Amin tortured his dissidents in special underground chambers. Even through you cannot enter the palace itself, for 10,000 USX you can tour the grounds and go into the torture chambers where captives were often electrocuted. Our guide was well versed on Ugandan history and more specifically the on goings under the Amin regime. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">King's Palace</td></tr>
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A little more somber and still full from our delicious meal we then zipped off to cleanse our souls and find enlightenment at Africa's Ba'hai temple. Situated a top of one of Kampala's outer hills, this temple is a house of worship to just over 100,000 Ba'hai living in Uganda alone. As we quietly sat and watched the sun set over Kampala it made sense as to why so many people congregate here. </div>
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After the sun was a mere streak in the horizon it was time to head back. Flying down the streets of Kampala, with the wind at my back, I could feel the subtle rhythms that makes this city different from the other East African capitols I have visited. It is evident that culture is apart of life here and with every horn blast, engine roar, and hand wave I felt apart of the daily dance that those living here are lucky to partake in.</div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-83078598942397496002013-08-17T07:31:00.000-07:002013-08-22T00:59:57.427-07:00Khat<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
As you travel the dangerous roads of Kenya your eyes will not be bored. From lush forests, to banana tree lined hills, to pineapple dotted plains; the lands of Kenya are ripe for all that visit. If you look beyond the terra cotta colored soil, there is the fascinating movement of people, animals, and products waiting to be bought and sold.<br>
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One of those products is khat: the mysterious plant that is heavily sought after in this part of the world for its amphetamin-like properties that according to scientific study causes "excitement and euphoria". Used culturally for thousands of years in the Horn of Africa and around the Arabian peninsula, khat is at the heart of many African tales. One such tale is that khat was one of the reasons why the US pulled out of Somalia. In order to stay away awake and alert while fighting, Somali soldiers chewed khat--day and night--and it is said that US soldiers were unable to compete next to the very energetic Somali soldiers and so they packed up and went home. </div><div><br></div><div>Whether the stories are true or not one thing remains fact: khat is one of Kenya's most lucrative businesses. Widely grown in the central part of Kenya, this legal drug has created a business model that Walmart could only dream of. Once picked khat has a shelf life of 3 days and so in order to get it to the hands of beckoning customers growers have had to get creative, especially in the areas of transportation. Understanding not only the importance to the Kenyan economy but also to their own personal khat desires, the Kenyan government has exempted these drug runners from any and all driving rules and regulations. Khat drivers whip down Kenyan roads at terrifying speeds in attempts to get the product to the exporters before it goes off. Their trucks, piled dangerously high and often teetering from side to side, carry millions of shillings worth of plant matter bound mainly to Somalia. </div><div><br></div><div>Watching these drug runners fly down the roads is an amazing sight. The physics behind it all remains a mystery and so if you find yourself on the roads of Kenya it's best advised to simply get out of their way. </div><div><br></div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-36585231194510145642013-08-17T07:18:00.003-07:002014-01-02T22:57:39.375-08:00The Streets are Alive in Nairobi<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
A city that has become famous for its high rates of theft, Nairobi, or more widely known as "Nai-robbery", is a place of pure chaos. Most travelers fly in here and get immediately out, fearing that their precious cargo will get instantly ripped off. Not wanting to fall into that cliche, and more importantly having a desire to see what Kenya's largest and most bustling city is like, I took a leap of faith and decided that Nairobi was worth more than a few hours of my time.<br />
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Upon arrival into this bustling East African hub you can instantly see why many are deterred from coming here. The traffic here has coined its own definition of insane and although many speak of the horrors of driving here, it is not fully appreciated until you are emersed within it. As a traveler I am usually prepared for the unexpected: I carry wet wipes in case I am thrown up on; a head lamp for power outages; a rain coat for all wet things that fall from the sky (is that really water coming from the ceiling?). However in Nairobi being prepared only gets you as far as your matatu and from there your life is as predictable as the weather.<br />
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The sky decided to open up on us as I arrived into Nairobi. I already knew that I had a bit of a drive (45 minutes to an hour) from the airport to Westlands, where my guest house was located. However, I had no idea what was in store when my driver Nicholas looked at me with a worried
expression and explained that because of the rain it was going to take
"a little longer" to get to my hotel. Sure, no problem, I thought,
sitting in the car a little longer is not big deal. Two
and half hours and 5 kilometers later I now had a different appreciation
for the expression "a little bit longer".<br />
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What I also came to appreciate is how Kenyans are able to maneuver
in such chaos; even when roads are blocked solid with what is perceived as no where to go cars find ways to move forward. When my driver got frustrated with the stand still traffic
he took matters into his own hands. Rules and regulations were quickly
cast aside as the van whipped on to the sidewalk. As we cruised down the sidewalk and past the
lines of cars memories of playing Grand Theft Auto with my brother
flashed before my eyes. I waited for the proverbial "F*$! You" to come
flying out of the mouths of those on foot but nothing came. At points where fingers would have been thrown and curse words spewed in the U.S., courtesy waves were given. People moved
out of the way and in most cases even assisted with the new flow of
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The streets of Nairobi are worth the visit in and of themselves. Back in the US sitting in traffic is often a drag; in Nairobi the streets are alive and is a place where you can get most of your errands and then some accomplished. While traveling through Nairobi you can purchase a puppy, a bed, any kind of curio, bananas, papaya, and bunches of sukuma (kale) and more. America may have invented the drive-thru but Kenyans have taken it to whole new and impressive level. </div>
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Although Nairobi can feel daunting upon arrival, its tough exterior does soften. With a population of over 3 million, Nairobi is a place that has much to offer visitors of all kinds. From the diplomat to the budget traveler, Nairobi should be given a couple of days, even if you just come to haggle from your car.<br />
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<u><b>Must</b> <b>See</b>:</u><br />
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<b>Nairobi National Park</b>. Spanning 44 square miles, this national park is the only National park within a city in the world. Its gorgeous vistas and accessible animal sitings makes this place a worthwhile trip. What makes this place even more desirable is the fact that it is home to an elephant orphanage. Due to poaching, man holes, mudslides and elephant traps, this orphanage has become home to 26 elephants, ages 3 days to 3 years. As a way to raise awareness and funds for this project people can visit the elephants from 11-12 daily for 500KS. Although skeptical at first, it is definitely worth your shillings to see these baby elephants wrestling with each other over a bottle full of baby formula.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK8gedF3UZjEDZTL4qCtLhDSP34GJUZCQ2UrwcTd1c2l4RhpD3c9Xv7ViowTCe8919akem-6vQt-r1lgRTYplJ7jSrBPwnPTf8-0XvtgPyBO4X3Vc_8dKYTIubfoH6_JzBuTUFApsw5U4/s640/blogger-image--1158593313.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgK8gedF3UZjEDZTL4qCtLhDSP34GJUZCQ2UrwcTd1c2l4RhpD3c9Xv7ViowTCe8919akem-6vQt-r1lgRTYplJ7jSrBPwnPTf8-0XvtgPyBO4X3Vc_8dKYTIubfoH6_JzBuTUFApsw5U4/s320/blogger-image--1158593313.jpg" width="320" /></a>From the elephant sanctuary one should then head to the <b>Giraffe Center</b> where you will come face to face (and more!) with the endangered Rothschild giraffe. No matter what your opinion is of the giraffe, I guarantee that these tall beauties will not disappoint. Entrance into the center is 1000KS which includes a well versed guide and the potential for the most unbelievable kiss of your life. Have no fear, Giraffes saliva is antiseptic to protect against the acacia tree thorns so a good lickin' from one of them will cause no harm or herpes.<br />
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<b>A Masaai Market. </b>On specific days of the week local curio sellers set up around Nairobi to sell you any and everything your heart desires. From hand carved bowls to beaded jewelery to beautiful batiks, these markets are a good place to go, get lost, and bargain (hard!) over prices. Even if you are not in the market for local crafts, it is a great place to watch the magic of negotiation. </div>
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<u><b>Got</b> <b>Extra</b> <b>Time</b>:</u> Check out Village Market with its fantastic food court; walk amongst butterflies at the Nairobi Butterfly Centre; eat nyama choma (Kenyan BBQ); and most importantly drink a Tusker or two.</div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-22809586337028387802013-08-15T09:39:00.001-07:002013-08-15T12:26:10.775-07:00The African Massage<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
In most western countries people pay top dollar for a massage. On the average Americans pay $75 to have their muscles rubbed down with essential oils, while listening to soothing rhythms from a far away land. Since the cost is high many Americans do not ever get to indulge in such a luxury.<br />
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On the other hand, here in East Africa massages are part of most people's daily ritual. And the cost? You ask seeing that most people live on only a couple of dollars a day: practically free.</div>
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Of course like all things in East Africa, a few rather minor details have been left out. The African massage does not come with essential oils. And it's not recommended that you take your clothes off. Privacy? Unlikely. Soothing music? Depends on your taste. Relaxing and rejuvenating? Probably not. </div>
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So then what's the deal with this massage? You ask. It's quite straightforward. The African massage is simply a ride down one of the many bumpy roads that cover this part of the world and is something that I have been privy to over the last 7 weeks. </div>
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Whether it's a van packed full of people listening to one of the best 80s dance mixes around, or a truck packed full of bikes, vegetables, 10 children, and some chickens, it's all the same: when we hit a rough patch in the road we all look at each other, laugh and say "oh, the African massage". It may not be as relaxing as the massages in the US but I can tell you that you will be hard pressed to find this good of a bum kneeding any where else. And only for the cost of a ride down the winding, dirt roads of east Africa.</div>
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Interested? Jump into any matatu, climb aboard any bus, jump on a boda boda, or joy ride on the back of any truck and you surely will find yourself enjoying one of Africa's greatest treats.</div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-84198314898203070232013-08-12T01:45:00.001-07:002013-08-12T01:45:58.169-07:00A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Market<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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We may speak different languages, eat different food, and practice different religions but across the globe there is one thing that is the same: the Wednesday and Saturday market.<br />
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Life all over this planet comes alive on Wednesdays and Saturdays as people flock to town centers in search of all things tangible. From bananas and corn to t-shirts and livestock, the market is life at its best. </div>
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Whether I am traveling or at home, the market place is my favorite stomping ground, and not just because of all of the local delectibles, but because it offers up some of the best people watching on this planet. Want to learn about a culture? Head to the market, buy a local baked good, and just watch. </div>
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This past week while walking the Saturday market in Nanyuki, Kenya, I learned the real meaning of "heavy duty". From a distance I saw a crowd gathering around two men, whom were both above average in height and muscle mass, that were yelling and jumping up and down. Was this a political rally? or some kind of dance troupe? I questioned. Curious about all the action that lay before me I walked forward. As I approached the crowd of energetic market goers I discovered that no, these men were not running for polical office or enthusiastically reciting biblical verses, no, these men were just selling heavy duty plastic tubs. Now where I grew up, in the good ole' US of A, heavy duty just means the product will potentially last longer but that it is by no means a guaruntee. However here in Kenya, "heavy duty" really means that you can bang it, slam it and even stomp on it and it will not break; here in kenya "heavy duty" actually means indestructible and to prove this there is no need for an infomercial. There is no need for "as seen on TV", nope, there is no need for any of that fake, manipulated crap because here in Kenya advertising is truth. Don't believe it? Just head to the market because they will personally prove it to you. </div>
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And so as I stood amongst the crowd, that grew by the minute, I watched two men sell plastic tubs like I have never seen before. Within minutes I was convinced that not only were these plastic tubs "heavy duty" but that I, too, needed one for jumping up and down on or perhaps just to wash my clothes. <br />
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Markets have that effect on you. They suck you in and next thing you know your basket is full of items that you might not necessarily need. Whether it a kilo of mangos or a heavy duty plastic tub, the excitement of the market is definitely a place worth spending your time and money.<br />
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-10877127211338970472013-08-07T03:38:00.001-07:002013-08-12T01:54:32.117-07:00Update: sleeping in NBO airport<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
As of this morning Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, the 4th busiest airport in Africa, is forever changed. A large fire has destroyed much of the building. At this point flying (and sleeping, if needed) will not be happening until further notice.<br />
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The cause of the fire, that occurred 15 years to the date of the US Embassy bombing, is unknown at this time. What is known is that emergency vehicles struggled to get to the airport due to lack of water, lack of fire engines (that were sold off in order to make up budget shortfalls), traffic congestion, and quite simply a lack of communication between the airport and social services. </div>
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Although many unknowns remain, the understory of this event is this: Kenyan civil servants haven't been paid in a month and social services continue to be slashed all while the government leaders receive high salaries, large mansions, at home and abroad, and expensive cars. </div>
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As Kenyans search for the cause of the fire and assess the damages, it is my great hope that Kenyans, at home and abroad, start asking their government leaders the hard questions and demand solid answers as to why events such as this keep occurring. </div>
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<a href="http://nyti.ms/12Zxcw9">http://nyti.ms/12Zxcw9</a></div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-50811064436566343092013-07-30T00:35:00.002-07:002013-08-19T03:57:29.850-07:00Running with Lions<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The sun was just peaking over the earth as I woke for an early morning run. It was a cool morning and Mt Kenya was still hidden behind the clouds. The rain from the previous day still wet the ground, keeping the dust down. It was the perfect temperature to go for a run I thought as I laced up my shoes.<br>
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"Okay, Wandeto, I'm ready", I called to my driver so we could set off to the main gate. Living inside a nature conservancy has its perks: impalas waking you in the morning, water bucks greeting you for your afternoon tea, and lions roaring you to sleep. However, the downsides are that you cannot walk, run or bike alone. In fact, you must have an armed guard with you in case of a dangerous wildlife encounter, which is statistically high in the <a href="http://www.olpejetaconservancy.org/" target="_blank">Ol Pejeta Conservancy</a> seeing that its landscape is dotted with lions, elephants, African buffalo and many species of antelope.</div>
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Spanning over 90,000 acres in central Kenya [an area known as Laikipia], Ol Pejeta Conservancy is home to many important and critically endangered species. This park is the largest Rhino sanctuary in East Africa and is the holder of 4 out of the 8 last remaining Northern White Rhinos in the world. This park is also home to the endangered Grevy Zebra and many chimpanzees that were rescued from Burundi, the DRC, and Sudan due to the bushmeat trade and deforestation thanks to many peoples desire for hard African wood. </div>
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On this morning the forest was still except for the faint sounds of animals waking in the distance. Birds chirped and the grass waved in the gentle breeze. Morning was coming and all that live here silently knew what the new day would bring. As we drove down the bumpy road I peered out of the car window. How lucky am I to be staying in such a magical place, I thought as I watched the landscape go by.</div>
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After 5 minutes of bumping our way down the road, Wandeto slammed on the breaks. "Whoa, that's a big one," he exclaimed. I instantly looked over to the left side of the road and saw one of the most powerful mammals that exist on this planet: the lioness. Our car came to a screeching halt as the lioness sauntered down the road. Her beauty and sheer might was a force not to be reckoned with. She moved with grace and her strong muscles, bulging with every step, reminded us how powerless we really are. </div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br></div><div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlZnCnZe48NPQdmbNg0vMVVxWTuEhZ1ExnGnbNXpFdJDwuvAxAaHeDEcotkdR6g4U1cvHt_4zhHCBzxWbF4dxaaIsq7dIAVJoMvW3veRPNeKMw1ZgdNtZS4LEezcWw9lvIrvqpJcaO6Vk/s640/blogger-image--1633983727.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlZnCnZe48NPQdmbNg0vMVVxWTuEhZ1ExnGnbNXpFdJDwuvAxAaHeDEcotkdR6g4U1cvHt_4zhHCBzxWbF4dxaaIsq7dIAVJoMvW3veRPNeKMw1ZgdNtZS4LEezcWw9lvIrvqpJcaO6Vk/s640/blogger-image--1633983727.jpg"></a></div><br></div>
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Within a minute she had passed our car and was off, most likely in search of breakfast. Wandeto, sparing no time, popped the car back into drive and carried forward. "No big deal, right, Wandetto!? Just our normal drive to go for a run," I said laughing in awe. Running with lions, yep, it's no big deal.<br>
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Interested in Ol Pejeta Conservancy? There are plenty of options for the curious traveler, animal enthusiast, conservationist, or pure adventurer. From high end accommodations at the beautiful, and historical, <a href="http://www.olpejetaconservancy.org/where-to-stay/ol_pejeta_house" target="_blank">Ol Pejeta House</a> (30,000KSH/night per person, full board) to camping (5,500KSH per site), the Conservancy is a place for all to come, enjoy and learn.</div>
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<br><div class="separator" style="clear: both;"><br></div>LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0East Africa (null)0.026363 36.903197tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-58973620931562246022013-07-27T00:56:00.000-07:002013-08-12T01:55:41.593-07:00The Exploitation of Giving<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We are taught to believe in the power of giving; that living selfless lives is what is best. Although this mantra still rings true, it is one that sadly is being exploited all across this globe.<br />
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A few weeks back the Tampa Bay Times, in conjunction with the Center of Investigative Reporting, published an article titled <a href="http://www.tampabay.com/americas-worst-charities/">"The 50 Worst Charities"</a>. Upon opening it I was shocked to read about the many popular charities that give as little as 3% of their donations to their cause. Even though I may not have given them my money or time, I felt cheated. You give hoping to help feed a family, send a kid to school or save an endangered animal. Finding out that your charity (or charities) of choice is spending your hard earned money on paper clips, fancy fliers and lunches out instead of on food, clothing and school supplies is disheartening. </div>
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Over the last couple of weeks I have witnessed begging on new levels and have been first handily given a run for my money. Swindlers lurk every where and are ready to take your money--how ever great or small--at any moment. In fact, it's almost standard operation here in East Africa. A mzungo, or white person, is a dollar sign. To a Kenyan, Ethiopian, Tanzanian, Ugandan, wzungo (white people) represent wealth and a lot of it and it is because of this a dark culture of exploitation of the rich and poor has emerged.</div>
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This past week I learned of a student that was in need of a scholarship to attend secondary school. The principal informed the government and local charities that this student needed assistance. Many people and charities spoke up and were willing to sponsor said student. The money poured into help this student and all walked away happy, especially the principal who walked away with a load of cash in his pocket because he managed to get over 5 people to pay the student's school fees. </div>
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Actions like this are common here. A bus load of tourists rolls into a children's home (orphanage) and see abandoned children who pull at their heart. Feeling guilty for what they have and the fact that they cannot take the kids home, they leave a pile of cash or a stack of new toys at the door. Within minutes of them leaving, the cash is distributed and those toys are hauled to the market and sold off, leaving the kids in the same sad shape they were left in. </div>
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Greed has caused a dark shadow to form over the act of giving. It has caused many to doubt and distrust even the most needy of people. You look at a five year old with torn dusty clothes who has sticks as legs and question if they were told to act this way. It sounds absurd until you find out that the $10,000 you donated was stollen in one such act. </div>
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As disheartening as this all may be the act of giving should prevail, but perhaps with a little caution. People all around the world still need, and rely, on the compassion of others. Children in orphanages still need love and attention, the black rhino still needs to be protected from poachers, and students across this globe still need schools, pens and pencils and so it is our job, as the donors, to make sure that we give wisely. </div>
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So what does giving wisely mean? It means checking your charities financial reports. Find out where they are spending the bulk of their money--are they really funding cancer research? Or sending kids to school?</div>
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If it is possible, give to a specific project. Donate money to build a school, play ground or animal pen. This way you can not only hire a local worker but you can see your project through. Giving money directly to a person or orphanage means much of it could go to line the pockets of those in power. If you do give directly, check to see that other organizations aren't also funding that same project and perhaps request a plaque to help keep "piggy backing" at bay.</div>
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Finally, donate to a charity that is sustainable. Often times volunteers come to a place, work on a project ,and when they leave the project falls to shambles because the locals are not invested or adequately informed on it. While working with <a href="http://projectkenyasisterschools.com/">Project Kenya Sister Schools</a> I have learned the power of community development. By involving the community and giving them the power to decide where PKSS's efforts are needed most they have been able to sustainably change many people's lives who live around the <a href="http://olpejetaconservancy.org/">Ol Pejeta Conservancy</a>. </div>
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As cynical as this all may seem, the act of charity still holds much power--so long as you and your money are not taken for a long and bumpy ride. </div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-27316515371194671052013-07-20T14:05:00.001-07:002013-08-12T01:57:36.776-07:00Walking with hominins: a worthwhile detour<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Between the Serengeti and the Ngorogoro crater lies a place that scientists and historians dream about. It is the home to artifacts that have shaped our knowledge of humans and the path in which we came. This sacred place, located 7 km from the Serengeti park gate, is the Olduvai Gorge and the location where 3.5 million year old footprints were found that provided much information about early humans.<br />
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Olduvai Gorge is a short jaunt down the incredibly rough road between Ngorogoro Crater and Serengeti National Park and is well worth the detour. Although the entrance fee is high for foreign nationals (2700TZS or 18USD), the museum does contain great information and one of the casts of the footprints themselves. The money from the entrance fee also goes to protecting the gorge, the now reburried footprints, and continued anthropological research. The rangers are also well trained and very knowledgable about the past and present work in the area.</div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4085464700352480883.post-16034157189653335202013-07-20T10:45:00.004-07:002013-08-15T11:37:56.787-07:00The Real Safari: this ain't no Lion King<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
By the hundreds Toyota Land Cruisers, packed full of homo sapien sapiens, flock into East African national parks in search of "the big 5", the term given by white hunters for the 5 most dangerous and difficult animals to catch: the lion, the elephant, the African buffalo, the rhino, and the leopard (if there were to be 6 it would be the Tsetse fly).<br />
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<i><span style="font-size: x-small;">Elephants in the Serengeti</span></i><br />
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The second we invade their homeland we want a show. No visitor is unique in this regard. The first question our guide, Tumaini, asked us was, "What do you want to see?" and besides my rather odd desire to see giraffes run, the entire car wanted to see lions kill a zebra. The possibilities of observing wild animal behavior are high while on safari but what I quickly learned is that not everyone on safari realizes that 1. They are not sitting at home watching a Disney movie 2. This is not the Discovery Channel's meticulously edited version of "Life in the Serengeti" 3. This is real--yes, including the lion--so perhaps attempting to pet her is not the smartest idea.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Visitors at Terengire NP observing 2 lions mate</i></span></div>
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On our first day on safari we found ourselves at Terengire National Park. Located 2.5 hours from Arusha, this park is famous for the many baobab trees that dot its landscape and the many elephant, zebra, and giraffe that live within its boarders. While on our first evening drive our driver heard "Simba"(lion in swahili) over the radio. We instantly stopped and a radio exchange occurred. Within seconds we were reversing up a hill, whipping a u-turn and zooming off to meet the many others wanting a glimpse at a lion. </div>
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Upon arrival we learned that it wasn't just one lion, but rather two, a male and female, that were engaging in a mating ritual. <i>You have got to be kidding me</i>, I thought to myself. <i>How often does one get the opportunity to watch lions mating outside of the Discovery Channel?!?</i> The answer is this: it's rare. Lions mate roughly 2 times a year in what is rather long and tiring process because it occurs every 15-20 minutes over a 48 hour time period. </div>
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As I sat there, with binoculars and camera in hand, I could only think how here I am watching lion porn and in a weird way enjoying it. In fact all of the 25 people packed in Land Cruisers were into it. After one of the "sessions", that lasted under a minute, an older women in the truck next to me said to her group mates, "wow, that was quick and rather disappointing". Confused by this comment, because how can one be disappointed by watching lions mate, I pondered it for a moment and then questioned what lions--or any of the animals--say about us. </div>
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Do they comment on our hair color, choice of clothing or our social behaviors? Do they, when walking past the outhouses at campsites, comment on the smell? </div>
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When a jeep full of tourists roll up, snaps shots of the vervet monkey and makes comments on how blue its balls are and red its penis, do they say to each other,"Do you see that thing coming out of that persons face? It keeps getting bigger and smaller. Do you think it is a sign that they are aroused?"<br />
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Although we come in droves looking for the animals that covered our walls as children, one of the most interesting aspects of safari in my opinion are the humans themselves. The way that us humans observe and question animal behavior is fascinating. We are mythicized by the way male lions laze around and yet still have numerous lady lions to mate with. We are enthralled by the way leopards stalk, sprint and finally slash their prey. We are grossed out by the way ostriches release their bowels and then claim them to be one of the more disgusting animals living in the Serengeti not stopping to think about what we look like while evacuating our bowels.We are highly critical of these animals--I found myself wondering how the hippos survive sitting in water filled with their own waste--and yet, I could not get enough.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Lion and his cub in the Northern Serengeti</i></span></div>
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And so from the Terengire we then headed for the open plains of the Serengeti in search of more raw animal behavior. Spanning 14,763 square kilometers, the Serengeti is most notably famous for the great wildebeest migration where the roughly1.5 million wildebeest that live on the Serengeti migrate north to Kenya between May and July. The great migration is a site to be seen and although we came at the end of the migration (most had already crossed into Kenya) it was no less spectacular. Our first day in the park was spent in the central part where there is a lot of animal activity and where most visitors find themselves.Within 2 hours of our morning game drive we saw a cheetah stalk and kill a gazelle, 3 lioness stalk (and miss) Thompson gazelles, leopards lounging in the trees and tiny lion cubs playing in the grass. That evening we set up at one of the local camp grounds where we were literally surrounded by wildlife. Although I can only imagine the splendor that is the Four Seasons Serengeti, I must say that camping inside the park was an experience that should not be missed--how often can you say that you woke up to lions walking around your site or could not sleep because the African buffalo was eating to loudly?<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><i>Cheetah kill in Central Serengeti</i></span></div>
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After 3 days of roaming the Serengeti we then headed down the dusty and extremely bumpy roads (that cause many flat tires) to the Ngorongoro Crater in search of the last of the "big five": the rhino. The Ngorongoro crater is a world wonder. Believed to have formed millions of years ago by a mountain that collapsed, this crater, which is 20 km wide and roughly 300 square km, is spectacular. Animal life is abundant and the vistas are breathtaking. Although we did not spot one of the 24 endangered rhinos that inhabit this park, we were not disappointed by the other brilliant wildlife that reside there. The bird life alone will keep you entertained for hours. </div>
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As our 6 days of safari came to a close our guide looked at us and said, "Well, now that you have seen the animals, if you could change into any animal which animal would you be?" Although I have been asked this numerous times and never struggled to answer--lion, of course--this time it took me a second. After seeing the animals in the wild--the sheer strength, might and power of them all--along with the real realities of their lives: global warming, poachers, and decreasing territory, I am definitely thankful to be human and not a hippo bathing in my own poo.</div>
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LKVhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/12326027834180981644noreply@blogger.com0