Bastimentos: a little slice of paradise

Rene aka "Cheno" is a slender 5'9" Bastimentos native. He has 4 siblings and "so many cousins" that he cannot even keep track of them anymore. Ask anyone, and not only do they know him, but they will probably tell you exactly how they are related. Although he has not been directly elected, Cheno is the mayor of Basti. 

Bombe, aka "big Papi" (due to his love of the Boston Red Sox) is Rene's best friend. Hovering at 5'7" and an easy 250 lbs, Bombe is a man with a warm smile and a mother that can cook up a mean piece of fish. Often hanging off his porch on the main strip, Bombe keeps track of the on goings in town and can help you find cold beers and Abuelo (Panamanian rum) after a long day at the beach.

And then there is Roberto. A dashing young man who "cannot find a wife because all these women here are my cousins", Roberto is one of the islands greatest resources. Not only does his mother operate one of the restaurants in Old Bank but he is one of the islands primary water taxi drivers. From Bocas town to Red Frog to Bibi's on Isla Carenero, Roberto is the man that will get you there and sometimes even with a beverage in hand. 

Although only 3 people, these are the people that make Bocas del Toro, and more specifically, Isla Bastimentos a little slice of heaven. Bastimentos, the largest of the islands in the archipelago, is a place to spend a day, a week, or even a lifetime. It's a place of smiles and loud cackles, the freshest fish and sweetest coconut bread. It's a place of world class surf and cold Panama beers. It is a place where reggaeton pours out onto the one sidewalk in town and time moves slow.

Although the guide books originally took me to Isla Colon, the more populated island in the Bocas del Toro archipelago, I knew I wanted a place where the beaches are practically empty, the surf is top notch, and where the bars are filled with locals and not the hoards of young backpackers from around the world. And so Bastimentos was exactly the island getaway I was searching for. 

Things to do in Bocas del Toro (in no particular order):

1. Hike to Red Frog beach, grab a beer, and then continue on to Pollo beach, Bocas's best kept secret. The hike to Pollo takes about 1.5-2 hours depending on speed and winds through the jungle and along the beaches. It's a beautiful walk and the great thing is that you can water taxi back from Red Frog (Pollo is 25 mins past Red Frog).

2. Day boat tour to Cayo Zapatilla, dolphin cove and Cayo coral. The definition of paradise comes from Cayo Zapatilla so pack so cervezas and a mask and snorkel and enjoy as much of it as you can. $25 per person.

3. Spend an evening in Bocas Town eating ceviche at the fish shop at the end of the island. This stuff is so good that it sells out so make sure you get there early. 

4. Surf at one of the many prime surf spots on the island. Surf lessons and boards can be rented at Bibi's on Isla Carenero. 

5. Eat at firefly on Bastimentos. Amazing food and drink--Period. Reservations necessary. 

6. Hike to the coffee shop on the hill on Bastimentos island and get the brownie. You won't regret this amazing (and fully organic) delectable. The coffee is also top notch. 

Travel practicalities:

1. If you can, fly. $100 each way on air panama. Flight is 45 minutes from Panama City and is worth every penny. 

2. Boat/bus. You can take a boat to/from Almirante and then bus to Panama City. Their is one direct bus to/from each day that takes 10 hours. Although the cost of $25 is significantly cheaper I would argue that your time is much better spent on the beach. If you do go by bus bring a blanket because they blast the AC. Ear plugs also will help tune out the constant stream of bachata music and babies crying. 

A man, a plan, a canal, Panamá!

Panama City, Panama is a town full of American expats, marine industry workers and Panamanians hoping to make a buck. Located at the junction where the Panama Canal meets the Pacific, this town has been an epicenter of trade for hundreds of years.

A city founded in 1519, Panama City is a place where old meets young, tradition meets modernity and plato typico meets Taco Bell. 

Wanting to experience the older side of Panama City we decided to stay in Casco Viejo, Panama's old quarter (designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1997). Built in 1673, this area is technically the new city of Pananma after the original city was burnt down by Henry Morgan and his band of pirates in 1671. The streets are narrow with the buildings an eclectic mix of old, new and ramshackled. This small neighborhood, located on the shores of the Pacific, is home to the Presidential palace, the original canal museum, catherdrals and many beautiful plazas, including Plaza del Francia, that overlooks the Pacific. This area is also home to many great cafes, restaurants, and rooftop bars, along with some swanky boutique hotel options.

Casco Viejo at night

Coming from Panama's international airport our taxi driver dropped us off at Luna's Castle, one of Casco Viejo's budget hostel options. Hoping this place would give us the simple respite we needed for a cheap price, we booked it. However, after one look at our private, 3 bedroom room we opted for a different option. The room, comparable to a prison cell, had one flickering florescent light, no windows and no AC and layers upon layers of dirt on the wall. Could I have slept there? Sure. However, the thought of a sleepless night and the potential of bed bugs sent us off to another refugio--the Tantalo, a boutique hotel where each room is uniquely decorated and the beds are like sleeping on a cloud. 

After finding a place to lay our heads we then took to the ancient streets in search for food. A short walk from our hotel was Plaza Bolívar, where flocks of Panamanians and tourists alike were partaking in a lovely evening of eating and drinking under the trees. With a plethora of restaurants to choose from, we ended up going with Casa Blanca. One look at their menu and I knew our stomachs would be satisfied: plantanos with calamari, grouper with peppers and creole sauce, sea bass with beet purée. 

With satisfied stomachs and few glasses of sangria in our systems it was now time to hit the bar scene. Club Havana and Casa Nuratti's rooftop bar were a quick jaunt away and offered up local music and cheap Panamanian beers and cold drinks. 

The next morning we then headed to what Panama is most widely known for: the canal. A 15 minute, $10 taxi ride brought us to the Miraflores locks, the closest of the 3 sets of locks to Panama City. The 80 mile long and 10 mile wide canal, now operated by Panama, takes boats 8-10 hours to travel through and is Panama's greatest source of revenue.Those wanting to travel through the locks can easily book a day tour for around $120. Otherwise for $15 you can hang out on the overlook of Miraflores and wander through their well put together museum that includes a 30 minute video on the making of the Panama Canal. 

Miraflores Locks

After an hour of watching the boats navigate through canal it was time to escape the heat and humidity and find refuge some where a little cooler. From the canal we hopped back into a taxi and headed to Marcos Gelabert Airport to catch our Air Panama flight north to the archipelago of Bocas del Toro.

Traveling through Panama City? 

Wireless internet is every where. Sign up for a Wego account and you will be able connect all over the city--for free. 

Negotiate with your taxi drivers before you get into their car. They set the price and will hose you if you do not agree on a price before getting in. 

Agave juice anyone?

For those of us living on the northern side of the Rio Grande, Mexico is known as the land of eternal splendor: unlimited sun, sand and agave juice. With its long list of serene beaches and energetic night life, Mexico is a place that thousands of gringos flock to each year. Whether or not one should go to Mexico is rarely the question, even with the recent increase in violence. Instead the questions is "where TO?" in the land of tropical splendor.

This time around I surpassed the college scene in Cancun and headed to the peace and serenity of the Baja. A quick jaunt away from the cold and snow in the Midwest, Cabo de San Lucas made an excellent getaway option.

Cabo de San Lucas is located at the very southern tip of the Baja de California. Originally a small fishing village, Cabo grew to be a popular vacation destination in the mid 1970s. Cabo San Lucas is the more popular place to stay of the two Cabos. With the plethora of beach accommodations, restaurants, and popular clubs, including the famous "Cabo Wabo" and widely known "Señor Frogs" chain, this town has something for everyone. 

For me, it had the perfect recipe for respite and relaxation. Staying at the Capella Pedregal I had to look no further than my beach chair for everything I needed. Opened in 2009, the Capella is one of 3 five star resorts in Cabo that goes above and beyond to ensure the comfort and happiness of each of their guests--Mexican s'mores on the beach? Check. Cucumber jalapeño margaritas? Check. The freshest sea bass ceviche around? Check. The Capella is also home to El Farallon, a cliff side, open-air restaurant that serves up the freshest seafood around. The views, ambiance and food create an evening for the books and so if you can swing it, this is a place to spend your hard earned dollars.

Overall, the Capella has definitely cornered the market on service and hospitality and has mixed up a recipe for relaxation to be reckoned with.

Although the resorts in and around Cabo make it very easy to never leave their gates, there are plenty of reasons to get out and explore the southern tip of the Baja. The Baja is a great place to enjoy whale watching (prime season is November-March), go deep sea fishing, and hike in the surrounding mountains. 

In and around Bhopal

When one googles "Bhopal, India" images of beautiful lakes and Indian landscapes do not flash across your screen. Although its nickname is the City of Lakes and is one of India's  greenest cities, the first page on Google alerts you to a much darker past. And it is true, Bhopal, located in the central Indian state of Madhya Pradesh, has a grim recent past. 

30 years ago, on December 2nd, 1984, gas leaked from the Union Carbide plant, now owned by Dow Chemical, and spread across the city of Bhopal causing close to 600,000 injuries to date. This disaster, which was caused by a lack of regulation and oversight, is considered one of the worst industrial disasters on record and sadly the city and the victims of the tragedy are still fighting for justice 30 years later.

Even though Bhopal has a dark past, it is a beautiful and charming city that can lure any person in for a couple of days. From boat rides to shoreline promenades to hotels where you can sip a chai and watch the sun move across the water, this city is dominated, and rightfully so, by its lakes. Bhopal is the calm and tranquil Indian child in comparison to its brothers Mumbai, Calcutta and Delhi, and so it is a great place to come, eat and simply relax.

Besides lounging along the lakes, Bhopal has many interesting historical sites right outside of its city limits that make perfect day trips.  

Bhimbetka Caves:

Located 45 kilometers south of Bhopal, this UNESCO world heritage site is home to 15,000+ year old rock paintings. Discovered in 1957, these rock paintings show images of animals such as bison, tiger, rhinoceros, wild boar, elephants, as well as popular religious and ritual symbols. The rock shelters, which are nestled on a high rock outcropping are from various epochs of time, ranging from the Upper Palaeolithic, Mesolithic Age to the protohistoric, early historic and medieval periods. The most ancient scenes here believed to be commonly belonging to the Mesolithic Age. 

Whether or not rock paintings are your cup of tea, the walk between the shelters and the views from the top of the outcropping make this a worthwhile destination. 

Sanchi

On a hill overlooking the countryside of Madhya Pradesh, about 40 km from Bhopal, is the site of another UNESCO world heritage site: the Buddish monuments of Sanchi. Dating back to the 2nd and 1st centuries B.C., Sanchi is the oldest Buddhist sanctuary in existence and was a major Buddhist centre in India until the 12th century A.D. In order to fully take in and appreciate the various stupas and intricate carvings one needs at least a half day to wonder around this site. 

Please note that even though these sites are located close to Bhopal they both cannot be easily seen in one day.  Due to the chaos that is India's roads 45 kilometers (27 miles) can take close 2 hours.

Looking for a place to stay? Bhopal has plenty of great options. The Ivy Suits Guest House offers up amazing views, delicious food, and wonderful service. The owner Pramod gives up great advice on things to see and do and is incredibly accommodating. He is also well versed in conservation efforts around India and can give you great tips on spotting one of India's prized Bengal tigers. 

Going on a [Tiger] Hunt...

It was 5:45am when I woke to a knock at my door. I groaned as I looked at the clock and saw the numbers flash across the screen. "5:45, really? It's so early. Come on tigers, can't you sleep in just a little." I crawled out of bed and opened the door of my immaculately decorated bungalow at Forsyth's Lodge. "Good morning, Miss. Your jeep will be leaving at 6:15", the young gentleman announced as he handed me my chai. 

The sky was barely stirring awake as I layered every piece of clothing I had on. You see I came to India thinking it was going to be hot. At least that is what I was told: "Prepare for the heat" all of my friends said as I packed for this trip. And now, on this early morning in December, I was freezing wishing I had brought my long underwear from Wisconsin.

At 6:25am the jeep arrived at the entrance of Satpura National Park located 210 kilometers away from Bhopal in the state of Madhya Pradesh. As we pulled up my excitement and confidence in finding one of India's mystical tigers had grown. Dawn was now showing its face as the five of us clambered onto the boat that would take us across the river and into the tigers den. "So Rishi, what is the likelihood that we are actually going to see a tiger today? Be honest. 25%? 75%? 100%?" I asked our eager, handsome young guide. "Well you see tigers are shy. Some days we see them, some days we don't." That wasn't the answer I had wanted to hear but regardless I was determined to find one.

River crossing at Satpura National Park

As the camp song, "going on a lion (tiger) hunt" repeated in my head I looked, listened, and watched the jungle for tiger activity. Every monkey call, bird chirp or sambar howl could mean a tiger is lurking close by. I was on high alert but with every minute that passed my confidence in seeing a tiger waned. As the sun moved high into the sky and our jeep made its way back to the entrance I knew my luck had run out. "Well, I guess no tigers today" I sighed. "On our next drive we'll get one--right?"

Elephant Safari

Although I never did get my tiger, my time in Satpura National Park was worth the trip. From elephant rides, to canoeing, to climbing to ancient cave paintings, there are plenty of activities for people of all ages within the park. Satpura is also the only park in India that allows visitors to walk within the jungle. Even though the king of the forest is the Bengal tiger, the park is home to a plethora of other animals, such as sloth bears, sambar, and flying squirrels, and so it is a place that deserves a few days. 

Main lodge at Forsyth's

Needing a place to stay? Lodging is restricted to outside of the park and is limited. I spent the entirety of my stay at Forsyth's Lodge and was highly impressed with the service. The staff is informative and welcoming and goes above and beyond to care for their guests. Other options include Rani Pani and Sunshine Jungle Lodge.

T.I.A.

A common, and perhaps overly used, phrase amongst people living and traveling in Africa is T.I.A., meaning "This is Africa". Throwing out a TIA shows your acknowledgment of all things awkward, absurd, and astonishing here in Africa.

Red roads of Jinja, Uganda

Over the last few months of trodding across the Eastern part of the continent of Africa there have been many times where a TIA would have been the correct response, for example why the power has not been connected to a building even when the cable is sitting 10 meters away or why people are okay waiting for a bus to leave 4 hours late. However, as I sit in the Entebbe airport ready to head back to the distant lands that I call home I can only think that TIAs are in fact almost always the incorrect response. It's a phrase seeped in judgement and the belief that the way things are done in the western world are better. After weeks spent on this continent I have seen; I have listened; I have learned.

Samburu students in Uasio Nyrio, Kenya

I have learned that TIA is the deep rust colored soil that stains your feet and the strong sun that deepens your skin; it is the smell of wood burning and diesel engines idling; it's the sound of Kiswahili, Luganda, Kikuyu, Amaharic, the queens English, and then some all being spoken and understood; it's the flavor of maize and beans, bananas of all sizes and colors, sweet potatoes, sukuma, and the most flavorful chicken you could ever eat. TIA is rhythm; it is dance; it is song. TIA is not feeling rushed, living in the here and now; it is family and community; it is understanding far to well that life is short. TIA is finding joy in the little things, not wasting a plastic bottle or throwing out a ratty old t-shirt. TIA is celebration, pure joy, and believing in mystical powers to explain the unbelievable.

Sukuma (kale) in Nanyuki, Kenya

Zege Peninsula, Ethiopia

And even though this continent has undergone, and still struggles with many hardships: corruption, poverty, war, disease, lack of resources; this part of the world still endures. So in one word, TIA is resilience. 

Africans make no apologies for their lives, culture, or countries, and so if you find yourself wandering around this part of the globe you either have to take it or leave it because, This, my friend, IS Africa.

Kampala by Night

"A Nile, please", I shouted to the bar tender at Steak Out, the local and popular Tuesday night haunt in Kampala. At 11pm the bar was just starting to pick up as people trickled in after a good days work. Popular Ugandan music was being spun from the DJ booth while a few danced.

The night was still young at 11pm here in this cultural Mecca. Although not widely known in the west, Kampala is a place with a vibrant nightlife. Bars, restaurants and clubs litter this city and on any day of the week offer up plenty to see and do. From reggae music, to pop African, to house, every night some where in this city is hot. 

On Tuesdays it happens to be Steak Out and so that is where I, and 8 others from across this globe, headed. An open air club with a large dance floor, pool tables and plenty of room to mingle, drink, and smoke hookahs, this joint was clearly the place to be that night. 

By midnight the bar was packed and the dance floor even more so. Ugandan rhythms commanded our attention and took hold of our souls as we literally danced the night away. By the wee hours of the morning there was no sign of stopping. People continued to pour in, presumably after working late night jobs, even at 3 am. 

After hours of dancing, and drenched completely in sweat, there was no question in my mind that Kampala is a place that rivals the nightlife of Vegas, Ibiza and Berlin and for a hell of a lot less USD.

Want to dance the night away in Kampala? Check out the local paper for what is happening each night. Mish-Mash is always a sure bet for a drink or a jumping off point.