Eating your way through Uganda

Throw a seed anywhere in Uganda and it will grow. The soil, a deep rusty red color, is some of the most fertile soil in the world. From bananas to pineapple food is abundant here, which makes it one of the best culinary destinations in East Africa. Loving to eat and try new things I made this trip back to Uganda all about food. From the 10,000 USH ($4) goat stew to the 500 USH (20 cents) chapati, here is how you, too, can eat your way through Uganda.

Rolex: the Ugandan take on the burrito. This very popular and amazingly priced (1000 USH) chapati and egg roll up will surely satisfy any hungry stomach. Add some avocado, tomato and onion and you've got yourself one hell of a meal.

Ground Nut Sauce: Uganda's national sauce. A simple concoction of ground peanuts, water, salt, and a touch of sugar, this sauce leaves your mouth salivating for more. Eat it as a stew with chicken or on the side with rice, but be warned, this is as calorie rich as it tastes. 

Kebabs: Kebabs are everywhere in Uganda. Whether you are walking in town or on a 10 hour bus ride, kebabs can easily be found. From chicken livers and necks to cow udder and ribs to illegal baboon meat, these tasty sticks are a great option for those who want a quick snack or a cheap, meat lovers meal. Price should be around 500 USH.

Roasted grass hoppers: A Ugandan delicacy for sure, these creatures are delicately roasted to insure the perfect crunch and then mixed with onions and other seasonings. Remember that looks can be deceiving so get yourself a cone full and give these fried up morsels a try. I promise you that you will be asking for more. 

Roasted Ground Nuts: Some of the best peanuts in the world come from here. Perfectly roasted deliciousness all for under 20 cents. It's a no brainer.

Matoke: The mashed potatoes of Uganda. Made by boiling plantains or green bananas, matoke is a staple food here. The markets in Uganda are filled with plantains ready to be served up as a side to chicken, goat, or fish. 

Crawfish with avacado: a delicacy from around Lake Bunyonyoni, this dish is lip smacking delicious. The dish consists of crawfish that are cooked in a spicy tomato-mayonnaise sauce and then served up with the freshest avacado around. If you find yourself lounging on the shores of Lake Bunyonyoni this is a must have meal.

Chapati: Indian style flat bread that is served with just about everything. From a main at breakfast to a side dish, chapati is what Ugandans run on. 

What to drink with all of this amazingness? Well, a Nile Special of course. 

Kampala by Night

"A Nile, please", I shouted to the bar tender at Steak Out, the local and popular Tuesday night haunt in Kampala. At 11pm the bar was just starting to pick up as people trickled in after a good days work. Popular Ugandan music was being spun from the DJ booth while a few danced.

The night was still young at 11pm here in this cultural Mecca. Although not widely known in the west, Kampala is a place with a vibrant nightlife. Bars, restaurants and clubs litter this city and on any day of the week offer up plenty to see and do. From reggae music, to pop African, to house, every night some where in this city is hot. 

On Tuesdays it happens to be Steak Out and so that is where I, and 8 others from across this globe, headed. An open air club with a large dance floor, pool tables and plenty of room to mingle, drink, and smoke hookahs, this joint was clearly the place to be that night. 

By midnight the bar was packed and the dance floor even more so. Ugandan rhythms commanded our attention and took hold of our souls as we literally danced the night away. By the wee hours of the morning there was no sign of stopping. People continued to pour in, presumably after working late night jobs, even at 3 am. 

After hours of dancing, and drenched completely in sweat, there was no question in my mind that Kampala is a place that rivals the nightlife of Vegas, Ibiza and Berlin and for a hell of a lot less USD.

Want to dance the night away in Kampala? Check out the local paper for what is happening each night. Mish-Mash is always a sure bet for a drink or a jumping off point. 

Kampala by Day

Africa has a sound to it that is musical. Although it's a noise that to many is deafening; to Africans it is the sound of life: horns honking, boda boda's (motor bikes) revving their engines, Afro beats pouring out of roadside shacks, women selling bananas. Kampala, the Capitol of Uganda, has this unique rhythm that I instantly wanted to dance to. From the moment that I stepped off my 14 hour overnight bus from Nairobi I knew I would like this place.

Kampala, or the city of seven hills, at times has a very western feel to it. If not paying full attention you might believe you were in San Francisco or southern Italy. Although Kampala, and more widely, Uganda's past has been troubled, especially under the watchful eye of Idi Amin, it is a city that has clearly revived itself. The streets are orderly; the buildings have European accents to them; the city feels safe. 

In order to really take in Kampala I decided that I must see it from the back of a boda boda. Although riding on the back of boda boda's can be incredibly unsafe, it is fantastic way to experience and appreciate all that Kampala has to offer. Thankfully there are many fantastic (and safe) drivers to take you around and after a quick inquiry at my hostel I was put in touch with Walter at Walter's Boda Boda tours. 

Within 30 minutes Edi, my driver, arrived. He zipped up, threw me a helmet and said "tugende", Luganda for "lets go". After strapping my helmet on, and telling Edi that I was not ready to die, we took to the streets of Kampala with a vengeance. 

First stop: independence park and the "Beverly Hills" of Kampala where the streets and houses very much resemble those in Southern California. The yards were beatutifully manicured; the houses were ornate; and the views of Kampala: stunning. Home to ambassadors and dignitaries from across the globe, it is very clear why this neighborhood earned its nickname. 

From 90210 we then headed to the heart of Kampala: its city center. Markets, taxis, matatus headed in every direction, and a plethora of bars and restaurants make up this part of Kampala. Driving through the tightly packed streets here requires the attention and skill similar to a neurosurgeon. Dodging left and right we carefully (and rather thrillingly, I might add) made our way through this section of town en route to one of the worlds largest mosques and what is considered to be one of the best views in Kampala.

Taxi stand in the city centre

Completed in 2008, the Gaddafi mosque, named after the ex-Libyian dictator who donated the funds to build it, is a beatuiful building perched atop one of Kampala's 7 main hills. For 10,000 USX ($4) a guide will take you into the mosque and to the top of the spire to take in Kampala from above. Women do not need to worry about wearing appropriate dress because it is provided for you. 

From the mosque we then headed for a traditional Ugandan lunch at 2K. Located close to the mosque, this restaurant is a popular local hangout. Serving delicious traditional delicacies from goat to ground nut sauce and everything in between, it was clear why so many people flocked here: the food was fantastic and worth every bit of my 10,000 USX.

Walter serving up banana beer

With our bellies full we then made our way to the King's palace. With quick detour to grab some banana beer and roasted coffee beans, we then cruised down the "royal mile", the street that connects the government building and palace (yes, it was copied from the Scottish), to the infamous palace where Idi Amin tortured his dissidents in special underground chambers. Even through you cannot enter the palace itself, for 10,000 USX you can tour the grounds and go into the torture chambers where captives were often electrocuted. Our guide was well versed on Ugandan history and more specifically the on goings under the Amin regime. 

King's Palace

A little more somber and still full from our delicious meal we then zipped off to cleanse our souls and find enlightenment at Africa's Ba'hai temple. Situated a top of one of Kampala's outer hills, this temple is a house of worship to just over 100,000 Ba'hai living in Uganda alone. As we quietly sat and watched the sun set over Kampala it made sense as to why so many people congregate here. 

After the sun was a mere streak in the horizon it was time to head back. Flying down the streets of Kampala, with the wind at my back, I could feel the subtle rhythms that makes this city different from the other East African capitols I have visited. It is evident that culture is apart of life here and with every horn blast, engine roar, and hand wave I felt apart of the daily dance that those living here are lucky to partake in.