Tusker Time

"Somewhere in the world it's Tusker Time", I told my friend Wandeto as we sat down for a late lunch of ugali, fried goat, and chapati. Although we usually wait a few more hours into the day to sit back, relax, and pop open one of Kenya's famous Tusker beers, today we decided that after our long walk in Nairobi National park that Tusker time would come early.

Even though Kenya received independence from Great Britain in 1963 it is still a place that is rich in many British cultural practices. Tea is still served at 10 and 4, they drive on the left side of the street, use British electrical plugs, and speak with a British English accent. However in the 51 years since independence Kenya has been able to reassert itself and create new traditions that are entirely theirs. One of those is Tusker Time, the Kenyan twist on high tea. It's an easy and quiet lovely early evening tradition that requires very little--cold Tusker beers and perhaps a bag of ground nuts (peanuts).

So whether you are navigating the "jams" of Nairobi, searching for the big 5 in the Masaai Mara, or lounging on the beaches in Lamu, if you find yourself in Kenya this is a tradition that should be honored and observed. 

Kenya's finest

The Streets are Alive in Nairobi

A city that has become famous for its high rates of theft, Nairobi, or more widely known as "Nai-robbery", is a place of pure chaos. Most travelers fly in here and get immediately out, fearing that their precious cargo will get instantly ripped off. Not wanting to fall into that cliche, and more importantly having a desire to see what Kenya's largest and most bustling city is like, I took a leap of faith and decided that Nairobi was worth more than a few hours of my time.

Upon arrival into this bustling East African hub you can instantly see why many are deterred from coming here. The traffic here has coined its own definition of insane and although many speak of the horrors of driving here, it is not fully appreciated until you are emersed within it. As a traveler I am usually prepared for the unexpected: I carry wet wipes in case I am thrown up on; a head lamp for power outages; a rain coat for all wet things that fall from the sky (is that really water coming from the ceiling?). However in Nairobi being prepared only gets you as far as your matatu and from there your life is as predictable as the weather.

The sky decided to open up on us as I arrived into Nairobi. I already knew that I had a bit of a drive (45 minutes to an hour) from the airport to Westlands, where my guest house was located. However, I had no idea what was in store when my driver Nicholas looked at me with a worried expression and explained that because of the rain it was going to take "a little longer" to get to my hotel. Sure, no problem, I thought, sitting in the car a little longer is not big deal. Two and half hours and 5 kilometers later I now had a different appreciation for the expression "a little bit longer".

What I also came to appreciate is how Kenyans are able to maneuver in such chaos; even when roads are blocked solid with what is perceived as no where to go cars find ways to move forward. When my driver got frustrated with the stand still traffic he took matters into his own hands. Rules and regulations were quickly cast aside as the van whipped on to the sidewalk. As we cruised down the sidewalk and past the lines of cars memories of playing Grand Theft Auto with my brother flashed before my eyes. I waited for the proverbial "F*$! You" to come flying out of the mouths of those on foot but nothing came. At points where fingers would have been thrown and curse words spewed in the U.S., courtesy waves were given. People moved out of the way and in most cases even assisted with the new flow of traffic. 

The streets of Nairobi are worth the visit in and of themselves. Back in the US sitting in traffic is often a drag; in Nairobi the streets are alive and is a place where you can get most of your errands and then some accomplished. While traveling through Nairobi you can purchase a puppy, a bed, any kind of curio, bananas, papaya, and bunches of sukuma (kale) and more. America may have invented the drive-thru but Kenyans have taken it to whole new and impressive level.

Although Nairobi can feel daunting upon arrival, its tough exterior does soften. With a population of over 3 million, Nairobi is a place that has much to offer visitors of all kinds. From the diplomat to the budget traveler, Nairobi should be given a couple of days, even if you just come to haggle from your car.

Baby Elephant at the David Sheldrick Orphanage

Must See:

Nairobi National Park. Spanning 44 square miles, this national park is the only National park within a city in the world. Its gorgeous vistas and accessible animal sitings makes this place a worthwhile trip. What makes this place even more desirable is the fact that it is home to an elephant orphanage. Due to poaching, man holes, mudslides and elephant traps, this orphanage has become home to 26 elephants, ages 3 days to 3 years. As a way to raise awareness and funds for this project people can visit the elephants from 11-12 daily for 500KS. Although skeptical at first, it is definitely worth your shillings to see these baby elephants wrestling with each other over a bottle full of baby formula.

From the elephant sanctuary one should then head to the Giraffe Center where you will come face to face (and more!) with the endangered Rothschild giraffe. No matter what your opinion is of the giraffe, I guarantee that these tall beauties will not disappoint. Entrance into the center is 1000KS which includes a well versed guide and the potential for the most unbelievable kiss of your life. Have no fear, Giraffes saliva is antiseptic to protect against the acacia tree thorns so a good lickin' from one of them will cause no harm or herpes.

Masaai Market

A Masaai Market. On specific days of the week local curio sellers set up around Nairobi to sell you any and everything your heart desires. From hand carved bowls to beaded jewelery to beautiful batiks, these markets are a good place to go, get lost, and bargain (hard!) over prices. Even if you are not in the market for local crafts, it is a great place to watch the magic of negotiation.  

Got Extra Time: Check out Village Market with its fantastic food court; walk amongst butterflies at the Nairobi Butterfly Centre; eat nyama choma (Kenyan BBQ); and most importantly drink a Tusker or two.

The African Massage

In most western countries people pay top dollar for a massage. On the average Americans pay $75 to have their muscles rubbed down with essential oils, while listening to soothing rhythms from a far away land. Since the cost is high many Americans do not ever get to indulge in such a luxury.

On the other hand, here in East Africa massages are part of most people's daily ritual. And the cost? You ask seeing that most people live on only a couple of dollars a day: practically free.

Of course like all things in East Africa, a few rather minor details have been left out. The African massage does not come with essential oils. And it's not recommended that you take your clothes off. Privacy? Unlikely. Soothing music? Depends on your taste. Relaxing and rejuvenating? Probably not. 

So then what's the deal with this massage? You ask. It's quite straightforward. The African massage is simply a ride down one of the many bumpy roads that cover this part of the world and is something that I have been privy to over the last 7 weeks. 

Whether it's a van packed full of people listening to one of the best 80s dance mixes around, or a truck packed full of bikes, vegetables, 10 children, and some chickens, it's all the same: when we hit a rough patch in the road we all look at each other, laugh and say "oh, the African massage". It may not be as relaxing as the massages in the US but I can tell you that you will be hard pressed to find this good of a bum kneeding any where else. And only for the cost of a ride down the winding, dirt roads of east Africa.

Interested? Jump into any matatu, climb aboard any bus, jump on a boda boda, or joy ride on the back of any truck and you surely will find yourself enjoying one of Africa's greatest treats.

Update: sleeping in NBO airport

As of this morning Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, the 4th busiest airport in Africa, is forever changed. A large fire has destroyed much of the building. At this point flying (and sleeping, if needed) will not be happening until further notice.

The cause of the fire, that occurred 15 years to the date of the US Embassy bombing, is unknown at this time. What is known is that emergency vehicles struggled to get to the airport due to lack of water, lack of fire engines (that were sold off in order to make up budget shortfalls), traffic congestion, and quite simply a lack of communication between the airport and social services. 

Although many unknowns remain, the understory of this event is this: Kenyan civil servants haven't been paid in a month and social services continue to be slashed all while the government leaders receive high salaries, large mansions, at home and abroad, and expensive cars. 

As Kenyans search for the cause of the fire and assess the damages, it is my great hope that Kenyans, at home and abroad, start asking their government leaders the hard questions and demand solid answers as to why events such as this keep occurring. 

http://nyti.ms/12Zxcw9

Running with Lions

The sun was just peaking over the earth as I woke for an early morning run. It was a cool morning and Mt Kenya was still hidden behind the clouds. The rain from the previous day still wet the ground, keeping the dust down. It was the perfect temperature to go for a run I thought as I laced up my shoes.

"Okay, Wandeto, I'm ready", I called to my driver so we could set off to the main gate. Living inside a nature conservancy has its perks: impalas waking you in the morning, water bucks greeting you for your afternoon tea, and lions roaring you to sleep. However, the downsides are that you cannot walk, run or bike alone. In fact, you must have an armed guard with you in case of a dangerous wildlife encounter, which is statistically high in the Ol Pejeta Conservancy seeing that its landscape is dotted with lions, elephants, African buffalo and many species of antelope.

Spanning over 90,000 acres in central Kenya [an area known as Laikipia], Ol Pejeta Conservancy is home to many important and critically endangered species. This park is the largest Rhino sanctuary in East Africa and is the holder of 4 out of the 8 last remaining Northern White Rhinos in the world. This park is also home to the endangered Grevy Zebra and many chimpanzees that were rescued from Burundi, the DRC, and Sudan due to the bushmeat trade and deforestation thanks to many peoples desire for hard African wood. 

On this morning the forest was still except for the faint sounds of animals waking in the distance. Birds chirped and the grass waved in the gentle breeze. Morning was coming and all that live here silently knew what the new day would bring. As we drove down the bumpy road I peered out of the car window. How lucky am I to be staying in such a magical place, I thought as I watched the landscape go by.

After 5 minutes of bumping our way down the road, Wandeto slammed on the breaks. "Whoa, that's a big one," he exclaimed. I instantly looked over to the left side of the road and saw one of the most powerful mammals that exist on this planet: the lioness. Our car came to a screeching halt as the lioness sauntered down the road. Her beauty and sheer might was a force not to be reckoned with. She moved with grace and her strong muscles, bulging with every step, reminded us how powerless we really are. 

Within a minute she had passed our car and was off, most likely in search of breakfast. Wandeto, sparing no time, popped the car back into drive and carried forward. "No big deal, right, Wandetto!? Just our normal drive to go for a run," I said laughing in awe. Running with lions, yep, it's no big deal.

Interested in Ol Pejeta Conservancy? There are plenty of options for the curious traveler, animal enthusiast, conservationist, or pure adventurer. From high end accommodations at the beautiful, and historical, Ol Pejeta House (30,000KSH/night per person, full board) to camping (5,500KSH per site), the Conservancy is a place for all to come, enjoy and learn.

The Exploitation of Giving

We are taught to believe in the power of giving; that living selfless lives is what is best. Although this mantra still rings true, it is one that sadly is being exploited all across this globe.

A few weeks back the Tampa Bay Times, in conjunction with the Center of Investigative Reporting, published an article titled "The 50 Worst Charities". Upon opening it I was shocked to read about the many popular charities that give as little as 3% of their donations to their cause. Even though I may not have given them my money or time, I felt cheated. You give hoping to help feed a family, send a kid to school or save an endangered animal. Finding out that your charity (or charities) of choice is spending your hard earned money on paper clips, fancy fliers and lunches out instead of on food, clothing and school supplies is disheartening. 

Over the last couple of weeks I have witnessed begging on new levels and have been first handily given a run for my money. Swindlers lurk every where and are ready to take your money--how ever great or small--at any moment. In fact, it's almost standard operation here in East Africa. A mzungo, or white person, is a dollar sign. To a Kenyan, Ethiopian, Tanzanian, Ugandan, wzungo (white people) represent wealth and a lot of it and it is because of this a dark culture of exploitation of the rich and poor has emerged.

This past week I learned of a student that was in need of a scholarship to attend secondary school. The principal informed the government and local charities that this student needed assistance. Many people and charities spoke up and were willing to sponsor said student. The money poured into help this student and all walked away happy, especially the principal who walked away with a load of cash in his pocket because he managed to get over 5 people to pay the student's school fees. 

Actions like this are common here. A bus load of tourists rolls into a children's home (orphanage) and see abandoned children who pull at their heart. Feeling guilty for what they have and the fact that they cannot take the kids home, they leave a pile of cash or a stack of new toys at the door. Within minutes of them leaving, the cash is distributed and those toys are hauled to the market and sold off, leaving the kids in the same sad shape they were left in. 

Greed has caused a dark shadow to form over the act of giving. It has caused many to doubt and distrust even the most needy of people. You look at a five year old with torn dusty clothes who has sticks as legs and question if they were told to act this way. It sounds absurd until you find out that the $10,000 you donated was stollen in one such act. 

As disheartening as this all may be the act of giving should prevail, but perhaps with a little caution. People all around the world still need, and rely, on the compassion of others. Children in orphanages still need love and attention, the black rhino still needs to be protected from poachers, and students across this globe still need schools, pens and pencils  and so it is our job, as the donors, to make sure that we give wisely. 

So what does giving wisely mean? It means checking your charities financial reports. Find out where they are spending the bulk of their money--are they really funding cancer research? Or sending kids to school?

If it is possible, give to a specific project. Donate money to build a school, play ground or animal pen. This way you can not only hire a local worker but you can see your project through. Giving money directly to a person or orphanage means much of it could go to line the pockets of those in power. If you do give directly, check to see that other organizations aren't also funding that same project and perhaps request a plaque to help keep "piggy backing" at bay.

Finally, donate to a charity that is sustainable. Often times volunteers come to a place, work on a project ,and when they leave the project falls to shambles because the locals are not invested or adequately informed on it. While working with Project Kenya Sister Schools I have learned the power of community development. By involving the community and giving them the power to decide where PKSS's efforts are needed most they have been able to sustainably change many people's lives who live around the Ol Pejeta Conservancy.  

As cynical as this all may seem, the act of charity still holds much power--so long as you and your money are not taken for a long and bumpy ride. 

Under African Skies

I have arrived. And will enjoy my first night under African skies in the Cold War era Jomo Kenyatta international airport. This airport is the 4th busiest airport on the continent of Africa serving 5 million travelers annually. From the looks of this place you would have no idea so many eager and weary travelers pass through the terminals here. There are no more then 10 electrical outlets in this place and the women sitting next to me just blew one of them so now we are down to 9. I feel rude occupying one but in the heart of Africa it is a fight for electronic survival. 

Before arriving I was trying to figure out if going to a hotel was worth the price considering my flight to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia was early the next morning. There was a significant lack of information about the facilities in Jomo and transport alone to hotels in Nairobi (20 kilometers away from NBO) was going to be between $40-80 round trip. For 4 hours of sleep I considered that not worth the price. Not knowing what to expect I have been plesently surprised by the offerings here--even with the musty 1970s smell. 

For those who might be finding themselves overnighting in the Nairobi airport here is some useful information for you (especially since sleepinginairports.com is not accurate):

1. The sleeping rooms have been ripped out. 

2. Ethiopian airlines and its partners have a lounge that you can pay $30 for 3 hours. Booze is included in that price.

3. NBO has FREE wifi. That is more than Ohare and most US airports offer.  

4. If changing airlines they will transfer your bags and so there is no need to go through immigration and purchase a transit visa. ($20 saved)

5. Take the airplane blanket and use it to sleep on. You will be amongst many sprawled across the floors here. 

6. If in dire straights, Johnnie Walker is in abundance at the duty free shops.